A friend and I set out for a winter shunpike to clear our head from being lost in the mundane of seasonal blues.
Maplefields’ coffee in hand, we passed ice chunked streams, slid on muddy back roads over steep hills, and passed through still villages under alabaster gloom. It’s great to feel the lightning from these backroad GPScapades, coming to love certain old buildings, relics in yards or falling out of barns in various stages of dishevelment, or attractive geography – digging all of that character that comes with time.
Then we found this abandoned house. We parked the car, trudged through thick brush and snow while gritting our teeth at that howling wind, and found an excellent museum of the human condition – a decaying exhibition space dedicated to the science of atrophy. Any explorer knows that there is always a thrill of being in a place where then and now collide.
This house that used to be wasn’t in great condition anymore – progressively leaning in directions that destroy architecture. Relics regarding the former occupant’s proof of life still litter the now drafty rooms that shimmer with swirling dust – containing everything from antique fireman’s helmets in the stone cellar, paperwork and lots of birthday cards, tons of clothes, family photos, a very 70s kitchen, and unopened prescription pill bottles, all tangled up in a fragrant mildewy perfume. We even detected whole fragments of a former truck, curiously buried along the stream banks out back.
There was so much to observe here that I wound up making several wanders to this house, observing how much it changed with each visit. I assumed I had stumbled upon some great undetected spot – but my assumption was eliminated when I started noticing changes – some as subtle as items being moved around from visit to visit, others glaringly noticeable as certain antiques had been plundered, and some just amusing – like a cheap scarecrow with a Big Lots tag intentionally positioned up in a lower floor window, or one of several creepy dolls in the house being put in eerie arrangements.
I think the unknowns who visit these places after they become abandoned are almost as fascinating as the places themselves.
Since 2012, I’ve been seeking out venerable examples of Vermont weirdness, whether that be traveling around the state or taking to my internet connection and digging up forsaken places, oddities, esoterica, and unique natural features. And along the way, I’ve been sharing it with you on my website, Obscure Vermont. This is what keeps my spirit inspired.
I never expected Obscure Vermont to get as much appreciation and fanfare as it’s getting, and I’m truly grateful and humbled. Especially in recent years, where I’ve gained the opportunity to interact with and befriend more oddity lovers and outside the box thinkers around Vermont and New England. As Obscure Vermont has grown, I’ve been growing with it, and the developing attention is keeping me earnest and pushing me harder to be more introspective and going further into seeking out the strange.
I spend countless hours researching, writing, and traveling to keep this blog going. Obscure Vermont is funded almost entirely by generous donations. Expenses range from hosting fees to keep the blog live, investing in research materials, travel expenses and the required planning, and updating/maintaining vital tools such as my camera and my computer. I really pride and push myself to try to put out the best of what I’m able to create, and I gauge it by only posting stuff that I personally would want to see on the glow of my computer screen.
I want to continuously diversify how I write and the odd things I write about. Your patronage would greatly help me continue bringing you cool and unusual content and keep me doing what I love!
n. a twinge of sadness that there’s no frontier left, that as the last explorer trudged with his armies toward a blank spot on the map, he didn’t suddenly remember his daughter’s upcoming piano recital and turn for home, leaving a new continent unexplored so we could set its mists and mountains aside as a strategic reserve of mystery, if only to answer more of our children’s questions with “Nobody knows! Out there, anything is possible.” – The Dictionary of Obscure Sorrows
I’d like to think this blog perpetuates the spirit of using your hometown or state as a playground – with the intent of experiencing things you’ve never experienced before, in a world which has largely been charted. Or maybe in some way, the credo of the San Francisco based suicide club, which was a 70s era underground social organization that coordinated rogue events and meetups in abandoned spaces – their motto was to live “each day as if it was the last”. They might also be the ‘original’ urban explorers, at least in the way of the modern day interpretation.
When I was in my teens and early 20s, I had an inchoate disposition and disenchantment with Vermont, when I was hungrily eyeing my friends out of state escapades to rambling abandoned asylums, industrial forests and galvanizing military ruins. Well, I’m still very into all that stuff. But…
While I did manage to plan a few adventures elsewhere, I had lost sight of the simple things I used to rely on, and the original spark that conceived this blog – what started my love of derelict sites and points labeled by people somewhere in the broad classification of “weird” – an edge I’ve always seemed to haunt.
Now I’m bringing it all back home again, re-chasing the excitement of discovery and the wonderment and burning fumes of seeing things I’ve never seen before, and trying my hardest to wander to unique content and that isn’t getting ruined on Instagram due to absurd amounts of tourism and deliberate belligerence.
There aren’t many things as enjoyable to me as going backroading with my camera, windows down and a Spotify playlist coming through my speakers. Autumn and coffee are added bonuses. There’s always a thrill and a grin when I cover more ground in the great state I live in – and I always love it when fellow Vermonters or Vermont enthusiasts reach out and share their own favorite spots.
I’m better in the spring when the earth begins to breathe again.
After that treacherous “polar vortex” that froze Vermont over for a few miserable weeks, a 60-degree day was ecstasy. So, of course, I went out exploring! Taking the the road less traveled as much as I could, I engaged in some blinding searchlight work, hoping to find something that would drift through my blood and bring the fireworks. And I did.
This old house, most likely built at the threshold of nuclear-aged development is now almost entirely consumed by mangy looking cedar trees that cast the odorous property in continuous chilling shadow – inconspicuous on a shitty road that slowly wanes from suburbia to meadowland. A sad eulogy for its once inhabiting family and a prototype of the dark promises of the American dream.
I couldn’t believe at just how much was left behind here. Some rooms seemed to be almost entirely furnished still. Family photos still lay in their frames on the walls. Personal paperwork was left in piles. Dishes, silverware, clothes, very 70s furniture, handwritten notes, all left for disfigurement to come in and nest. It makes you wonder why and how these places end up the way they do. I don’t think humans and the clatter of their chains will ever not fascinate me. I also realized upon leaving that parts of the foundation had entirely crumbled into the dank cellar below, making me realize that the whole house could have potentially collapsed at any point I was inside.
The title of this blog entry was swiped from a beautifully dark Elliot Smith song of the same name. I thought it was fitting, if not a little ironic.
Since 2012, I’ve been seeking out venerable examples of Vermont weirdness, whether that be traveling around the state or taking to my internet connection and digging up forsaken places, oddities, esoterica, and unique natural features. And along the way, I’ve been sharing it with you on my website, Obscure Vermont. This is what keeps my spirit inspired.
I never expected Obscure Vermont to get as much appreciation and fanfare as it’s getting, and I’m truly grateful and humbled. Especially in recent years, where I’ve gained the opportunity to interact with and befriend more oddity lovers and outside the box thinkers around Vermont and New England. As Obscure Vermont has grown, I’ve been growing with it, and the developing attention is keeping me earnest and pushing me harder to be more introspective and going further into seeking out the strange.
I spend countless hours researching, writing, and traveling to keep this blog going. Obscure Vermont is funded almost entirely by generous donations. Expenses range from hosting fees to keep the blog live, investing in research materials, travel expenses and the required planning, and updating/maintaining vital tools such as my camera and my computer. I really pride and push myself to try to put out the best of what I’m able to create, and I gauge it by only posting stuff that I personally would want to see on the glow of my computer screen.
I want to continuously diversify how I write and the odd things I write about. Your patronage would greatly help me continue bringing you cool and unusual content and keep me doing what I love!
Sometimes it’s fun to wander around an old New England boneyard, which occasionally contains products that chronical captivating calamities, violence, and curiosities that have long been running deep in New England’s granite hills and character.
There is actually an entire coterie of tombstone tourists who dig hanging out in cemeteries and marveling at what the dead went into creating. If you’ve been following my blog for a while, you know I’ve sojourned to a few cemeteries before, where I’ve tracked down everything from a grave with a curse, to a grave with a window.
In the postcard lauded NEK village of Peacham is a graveyard on a hill crest with a view, and inside is a quiet monument erected by guilt-burdened townsfolk over a century ago.
The increasingly hard to decipher text reads; Erected by the citizens of Peacham to the memory of Esther Emmons, aged 74, Mary Davis, aged 35, and Willie, aged 8 – a mother, daughter, and grandchild who perished in the snow on the night of March 5th AD, 1869, after traveling on foot nearly 15 miles during the day.
It was an appropriately miserable 7 degrees that day with a brutal wind as I drove into town on the cratered tarmac of the Bayley Hazen Road – one of Vermont’s most historic thoroughfares.
Commissioned by Colonel Jacob Bayley and General Moses Hazen in 1776, the idea was to slash a road from Wells River and head northwest through the frontier lands of northern Vermont up to the border, so the continental army would have a convenient route to invade Canada if they decided to put that on their to-do list.
But roads work in two directions. By 1779 they got as far as a gap in the Green Mountains now known as Hazen’s Notch (which is a great drive!) before they realized that the British army could also easily use the road to raid Vermont. Oops. Construction ceased, but what had already been laid down inadvertently opened up access to a corner of Vermont now known as the Northeast Kingdom that was previously incredibly hard to get to – places like what became known as Peacham.
Today, tons of kingdom towns have Bayley Hazen Roads – and you can still drive a huge chunk of the original military route as plotted in this cool pdf that would make a fun summer or autumn road trip for those of you who dig backroad expeditions like me.
This wasn’t the easiest marker to find. With some emailed guidance by the enthusiastic Stan Fickes of the Peacham Historical Society, I spotted my sought-after piece of memento-mori as the chill crept down my spine; an innocuous granite rectangle with subtly rounded top gouged with a weather-beaten eulogy that looked much like half the other graves here, and probably wouldn’t have grabbed my attention if I didn’t have an idea of what to detect.
This also might be one of the few instances where a re-cataloging of a cemetery came about due to a ghost story.
Mr. Fickes recalled an interesting personal story to me. Several years ago, he worked as the assistant town clerk. A local woman had stopped by one day and sheepishly came forward with a problem that isn’t complained about on the regular. She explained that they had bought an old house in town and had been living there for a few months now, but something was a bit… amiss.
She and her husband both admitted to feeling something in the house, something they described as “a presence”. This notion was solidified when they actually saw a woman inside their house, a woman in ‘Victorian’ garb that was trespassing in a corporal sense.
They started to ask around about the house’s history and discovered that a girl had drowned in their water supply cistern decades ago. They wanted to know more about the drowned girl and tracked down her name – which lead them to find her grave in the town cemetery. It dismally appeared that the girl had been buried by herself, with nothing that could be traced as her family anywhere near her plot. The story affected them on such a personal level that they would make several visits to her resting place over the years.
By chance, a cousin of the girl heard about their interest and stopped by the town clerk’s to convey more of the story. It turns out, her parents weren’t far away at all! They were actually buried right beside her, but they couldn’t afford to have their names added to the headstone.
However, none of this supposedly stopped any odd happenings at that house, even with a change of ownership over the years. But the search for the little girl’s grave and the noting of its additional occupants did inspire a revision of the cemetery index – which helped me find what I was looking for.
As I knelt down on the frozen grass and pulled my camera out of my bag, I couldn’t help thinking that I hope this will be a tale that hopefully inspires generosity in present-day Vermonters.
————————————————
Mrs. Esther Emmons was an impoverished widow and an employed servant on a well-to-do farm near Peacham. Her son had recently become disabled after an accident in the Vermont woods (sources vary; either he was a woodsman or a farm hand) left him crippled.
Having no way to bring in any income, he was indignantly left with no other choice but to apply to the town of Hardwick for assistance.
Mrs. Emmons walked the 20 miles from Peacham to Hardwick to see to her son. Her daughter, 35-year-old Mary Davis, and her grandson, 8-year-old Willie, agreed to fetch her later that day and make the walk back together.
But the appointed overseer of the poor, who was ironically lacking in sympathy, curtly told Mrs. Emmons that her son was her responsibility. There being nothing else she could do, she glumly rendezvoused with her daughter and grandson and embarked on the long walk back to Peacham.
It was calm when they set out – the cold coming at them like knives. By the time they reached north of Peacham, thick storm clouds drifted in and light flakes began to drop around them.
Arriving at the junction of Peacham woods, Mrs. Emmons was beginning to show signs of exhaustion, and the skies began to get ominous.
Assessing the situation, they decided to take the long way around – with the intent of seeking shelter at one of the farms they’d have to pass. That would surely be a safer bet than taking the little-traveled and undeveloped uphill road through the forest, which might be a fatal place to get stuck in such a big blizzard that was approaching.
The Bean farm came up first, but Mr. Bean, who apparently had a deficiency in social niceties, flat out turned them away.
Their hopes were picked up when they heard the clank of approaching sleighbells. A man in a one-horse sleigh was passing by and slowed down when he recognized Mrs. Emmons. He offered her a ride, but the sled couldn’t hold the weight of all 3 of them. Mrs. Emmons declined, saying that she was going to stay with her family. Surely the next house would take them in she reasoned.
The trio trudged onward. The storm’s fury was swelling into something that would make misery proud, and the night was finally tuning up, sending wet clumps of snow that clung to their bodies and a stinging wind that flung icy crystals into their faces.
They began to stop and embrace each other for warmth, and then keep moving forward a few more sluggish yards in the dark and sleet before repeating the process, until the form of the Stewart farmhouse came into their blurry sight.
Hope for a night’s lodging gave way to a dreadful surprise when Mr. Stewart brusquely and without an explanation, grunted “I’m taking no one in”, and slammed the door in their faces.
The incredulous family turned away and desperately attempted to reach the Farrow Farm down the road – who were known by many to be kindly folks.
But Mrs. Emmons’ strength had almost diminished, and now the stalwart matriarch, who had been their leader and navigator, was stumbling into rapidly gathering snowdrifts and greatly struggling to continue onwards. Mary and Willie desperately attempted to help her and drag her along, but hunger, fatigue, and the strangling cold was taking their toll on all of them.
Could they make it?
As you’ve already seen in my photograph, they sadly became confused, disoriented, worn down, and froze to death within 30 feet of safety.
The next morning, Peacham residents awoke to the mercury sinking to 24 below zero at the end of one of the worst snow storms in Vermont history and began the arduous process of digging themselves out from shoulder high drifts.
Townsfolk hitched up their oxen and sleds, formed teams, and set out to the seemingly impossible task of breaking through snow covered roads.
Then, Ben Kimball spotted something from his sled. Brightly covered cloth against the stark white of fresh powder. He slowed down to investigate and grimly discovered that the garment was attached to the corpse of an old woman. It was the widow Esther Emmons.
He called out for assistance, and soon, the crew made even more gruesome discoveries.
Another body, a younger woman who they recognized as Mary Davis, was found sitting against a stone wall where she’d frozen to death. Then they found eight-year-old Willie Davis nearby, who was poised upright as if he’d been fighting his way from the Farrow farmhouse through the storm back to his mother’s side. Judging by his tracks that were still visible in the snow, it looked like he had become disoriented, and for some reason had turned around. In some instances, he’d been crawling on his hands and knees.
Distressed spectators were able to put together the missing pieces. When Mrs. Emmons was no longer able to stand, Willie attempted to go for help. He was undoubtedly guided by a lighted window at the Farrow’s. But the boy had become confused and turned around just a few feet from shelter.
Later during questioning, Mr. Farrow admitted to turning out his light and going to bed around the same time he heard some sort of faint calls amid the howling storm. But then he disclosed a pretty gothic detail; he attributed the cries to his demented daughter who was locked away in a room upstairs and didn’t think much else of it.
Peachamites, caught in the gravity of failing to help their own, attempted to atone for their collective sins and decided to erect a modest monument out of humiliation.
Though it was ruled that no one was officially at fault, in the minds of most, it was cold-hearted Mr. Stewart who was to blame. Reportedly, he agreed with that sentiment and suffered horrendous guilt for the rest of his days.
Even on his deathbed, he still felt haunted by his callous actions on that dark event from 1869. As the tale goes, his body shivered violently as if from a terrible cold. He cried out that he was freezing, whether from delusion or perhaps, something more preternatural…
And though it was mid-July when he died, Mr. Stewart’s corpse was as cold as ice.
** Thank you to Stan Fickes of the Peacham Historical Society, who provided background information on this tragic tale and aided me in my cemetery safari.
Since 2012, I’ve been seeking out venerable examples of Vermont weirdness, whether that be traveling around the state or taking to my internet connection and digging up forsaken places, oddities, esoterica, and unique natural features. And along the way, I’ve been sharing it with you on my website, Obscure Vermont. This is what keeps my spirit inspired.
I never expected Obscure Vermont to get as much appreciation and fanfare as it’s getting, and I’m truly grateful and humbled. Especially in recent years, where I’ve gained the opportunity to interact with and befriend more oddity lovers and outside the box thinkers around Vermont and New England. As Obscure Vermont has grown, I’ve been growing with it, and the developing attention is keeping me earnest and pushing me harder to be more introspective and going further into seeking out the strange.
I spend countless hours researching, writing, and traveling to keep this blog going. Obscure Vermont is funded almost entirely by generous donations. Expenses range from hosting fees to keep the blog live, investing in research materials, travel expenses and the required planning, and updating/maintaining vital tools such as my camera and my computer. I really pride and push myself to try to put out the best of what I’m able to create, and I gauge it by only posting stuff that I personally would want to see on the glow of my computer screen.
I want to continuously diversify how I write and the odd things I write about. Your patronage would greatly help me continue bringing you cool and unusual content and keep me doing what I love!
It felt great to be outside last weekend without my Carhartt and winter gear! 64 degrees on a February Saturday meant me and an exploring compadre set out for an off the beaten path oddity hunt – one that had tantalizing fragments of being a unique natural wonder saturated in mystery, history and allegedly once the site of some sort of spitefully destructive curse.
Well, we were on our way. For this trip, we headed up towards one of the most remote areas of the most remote area of Vermont.
Vermonters refer to the northeastern most part of their state as The Northeast Kingdom. Its regional moniker was said to be inspired by a 1949 speech by US Senator George Aiken, who purportedly said something like; “Man, this is such beautiful country up here, it should be called the Northeast Kingdom”. But, according to an edition of LIFE from 1977, Aiken, from the kingdom town of Irasburg, used the term facetiously when he referred to the state’s most wretchedly poor corner with exorbitant heating prices and mangy looking forests as “my Northeast Kingdom”.
Only one of those two anecdotes is better for tourism.
The region has even been recognized by National Geographic as one of the first geotourism destinations, which coincidentally is kinda relevant to this blog entry.
I love the NEK. I have good memories up that way. I remember my dad taking me fly fishing on the Barton and Willoughby rivers as a young kid and handing down his wisdom, pointing out small towns from the driver’s seat and sharing old stories. Later in my years, I’d attend Lyndon State College in Lyndonville and go out backroading on weekends.
The kingdom might be Vermont’s most fabled and mythicized realm, and that’s largely due to it being so extraordinarily wild. It’s certainly always had a different feel to it than the rest of the state. Driving up Route 2, it was almost a 3-hour trip to a part of the state with no direct routes and lots of bad road tar crossing the area.
But the journey, to me anyways, is always half the fun. We began to pass towns with increasingly thinning populations, before turning north onto deserted state route 102, which serpentines along the mighty Connecticut River and brings us deep into unpopulated timberlands and destitute little towns that are now smaller than their census counts a century ago.
There was the Essex County seat of Guildhall, which was sparsely more than a collection of old wood-framed buildings around the town green. Their town hall was actually named “The Guild Hall”, and I appreciated the cleverness. Further north, there was tinier Maidstone, where the most remote state park in Vermont is. Beyond that was our destination town of Brunswick, which was little more than a vacant one room school house, a town office building and 2 houses before returning back to ugly sand-banked woodlands and acres that dragged together.
Those woods are where one of Vermont’s earliest oddity tales came out of a few centuries ago – when early settlers began uttering stories of a strange critter, that began reputedly terrorizing a broad area stretching from Morgan at the border, down to Brunswick, Lemington, Maidstone and westwards towards Victory sometime in the early 1800s.
This canny inhabitant is in the elusive category of Vermont’s endemics and left folks baffled to know that they were sharing the state with it.
It was said to be some sort of awesome bear with abnormal intelligence and human-like behaviors. The Indians knew of this smart bear too, and called it Wejuk, which translated to ‘Wet Skin’. Samuel de Champlain might have even seen one of its kin as it threw pine cones at his crew while sailing near Missisquoi Bay.
White settlers took to similarly calling it “Old Slipperyskin”, due to the thing’s uncanny ability to avoid being captured. It could literally ‘slip’ out of any trap set for it.
Other defining characteristics were It was said to walk upright like a man, had a mean disposition, and would even seek out revenge on those it had a grudge against. It could rip out fences, frighten livestock, flatten cornfields with trees, or use stones to throw at machinery and fill up sap buckets. Most impressively, some guessed the wily creature had a way of backtracking in its own prints, confusing trackers with a trail that abruptly ended. A few hunting parties were put together around the region, and all failed at shooting the underestimated antagonist.
It was prevalent enough in kingdom culture where the bear would enter local historical records, such as the History of Lemington written by Marion M. Daley, was mentioned in quite a few local newspapers through the 19th century, and later re-discovered by Vermont author and folklorist Joseph Citro in his book Green Mountain Ghosts, Ghouls, and Unsolved Mysteries and given a mention in The Northland Journal. The Norwich Inn also named one of their IPA’s after it, which I haven’t tried but would like to.
Even former Vermont governor Jonas Galusha attempted to hunt it down in 1815, when himself and a hunting party entered the Maidstone woods where it was last sighted. But instead, they were fearfully chased out of the woods by the enigmatic monster when the governor finally encountered it.
Though we really have no idea what Old Slipperyskin actually was, the story has enormous charm and is a fun one to tell, even if it might be nothing more than historical deformity.
But the fundamental truths remain; it resembled a bear but walked like a human, it seemed to be highly intelligent, and it appeared to be hostile. Maybe it was provoked because people were starting to intrude on what for centuries had been its own dominion, making it vindictive and hostile when encountered?
Where the bear came from, what it actually was, and where it ultimately vanished too afterward still all remain in the realm of enigma and largely forgotten about. I wonder if people still spot something comparable nowadays?
Brunswick Springs
Believe it or not, Robert Ripley once addressed the Brunswick Springs as “the eighth wonder of the world“, which only adds to its mystique, because they’re mostly in the haze of esoterica and are largely unremembered by folks today.
But it’s easy to understand the curiosity about this place because it’s a true geographical anomaly. Here, 6 springs with completely different mineral contents, all bubble forth from a single knoll as close together as the spigots on a soda fountain. They flow under the crest of a steep hill before all merging together in an – at the time of my visit – orange, gunky, iron oxidized spillway draining all together down into the Connecticut River below.
An old, helpfully labeled photograph of the springs lists their individual mineral contents from left to right; Iron, Calcium, Magnesium, White Sulfer, Bromide, and if you’re really intrepid, Arsenic.
The deterioration of the 19th century attempts to exploit the springs was also very evident. The modern “facelift” they were given consisted of channeling them through convenient pipes and building a concrete landing above for easy access. But when I visited, only 4 of the 6 springs were still encased through now rusted pipes, the infrastructure of the two most leftward ones seemed to have completely deteriorated, once again returning them to somewhat more of a natural environment.
Medicine Waters
To the Native Americans, the springs were, and still are, considered magical healing waters on sacred, legend crowded terrain.
The Abenaki used to make long-distance treks here to benefit from the “medicine waters of the great spirit”. But, they only visited during the hours of daylight.
Not only was this seen as a spiritual place, it also had a metaphorical dark side after the literal dark would crawl up over the north country. Part of the land’s divine designation meant the Abenaki believed there was a supernatural balance here, an arrangement of light and dark forces – perhaps symbiotic. Something was said to reside and lurk on those Connecticut River banks, both respected and wisely avoided.
Near the springs is a tranquil waterbody that’s called Silver Lake. You won’t find it labeled on any atlases though. Abenaki lore says that it’s bottomless and that Indian spirits can be seen around the shore.
Other, more wishful lore suggests that the doomed Roger’s Rangers party – while fleeing from their horrific raid/massacre on a Saint Francis Indian village in Quebec – might have stashed some of their plundered treasure near the vicinity, and never made their anticipated return to grab it because they eventually lost their way and forsakenly perished in the frozen wilderness.
Who knows, there may still be a priceless silver statue of the Madonna somewhere in the wilderness of the northeast kingdom or the White Mountains, waiting to be discovered…
A few troubled souls used the forests near the springs as a place to kill themselves in more recent years, and an infant was once found strangled to death close by.
A more gloomy account documented by VPR was described to them by an Abenaki descendant from Swanton, who found the body of an old logger who just got sick of living, tied a rope both around a tree limb and his neck, and sat down.
No doubt the Brunswick Springs can be a spooky place, but what about the real draw here?
The springs and their supposed natural healing powers were revered for centuries, but their first documented account in the public sphere happened in 1748, when Abenakis allegedly lead an injured British soldier to the springs all the way from Lake Memphremagog. The soldier had a badly wounded arm that was almost lifeless, and he worried about having to get it amputated or losing it to infection – both outcomes would most likely involve the dreadful medical procedure of removing the appendage with a surgeon’s saw without anesthesia.
Somehow, through an undocumented ritual, a shaman worked those magic springs over his arm, and miraculously, life returned to the injured limb! As far as I know, this seems to be the best-documented case of the waters and their vigors.
The Abenaki avow that you can treat just about anything here – these 6 springs are all the prescriptions you’ll ever need. It just depends on how you mix them. That arcane wisdom, however, seems to be covert hum.
There isn’t exactly tons of factual evidence that claims the validity of this place though. Apparently, a state geologist from New Jersey once tested the spring waters and observed that the mineral contents weren’t all that different from one another, just a lot of sulfur dioxide. But, former Vermont state geologist Dr. H. A. Cuttings had a different opinion and likened them to the chalybeate waters in Germany, which were sought after to combat skin diseases.
Even today, some denizens from local towns still make trips to the property and argue that it’s partially responsible for their longevity. They don’t need scientific confirmation. As is often the case with legends and mythology, not everything relies on evidence.
Brunswick resident Bill Boudle told Bill Alexander of Vermonter.com, that he’s been drinking the waters there since 1945. After he injured his back working on the railroad, no doctors or chiropractors were able to give him any relief, until he started consuming the medicine waters. “I’m telling you that stuff will heal. A lot of people use it,” Boudle told Mr. Alexander.
Beverly Kettle from across the river in North Strafford, New Hampshire, recalled an old man living in a cabin near the springs when she was a child. The man would regularly drink the waters and lived to the old age of 90 – and said that his ‘secret’ was those trips down to them.
So is there truth to any of this? What about that British soldier and his personal wondrous phenomenon here? If these waters are so miraculous, why are they so obscure today?
Curses!
We’ll have to take a look at some vague and bewildering history that progressed over the intervening centuries to get anything that may come close to being an answer here.
Ironically, the troubles started when that soldier came back to what is now Brunswick after the French and Indian war. He was so taken by his experience that he wanted to bottle and enterprise from the waters. The Abenaki weren’t having it, firmly objecting to the preposterous sale of something the great spirit gives for free. But the word was already out and would take off like a contagion shotgun blast.
Brunswick was charted in 1761 and as it is now, has never been very populated. But settlers did eventually trickle up into Vermont’s last frontier, just very slowly.
Anglo and Abenaki began to find themselves in a conflicted relationship over the local wonder. At first, everyone took freely of the waters. But soon, that notion of free sharing began to corrode when early American entrepreneurs began to eye them as agents of free enterprise.
Businessmen made a variety of offers and bargains, but the Native Americans held firm to their decision not to sell. Because being covetous brings out the worst in people, attempted negotiations became hostile, and two Indians would somehow be killed as a result.
The grief-stricken mother of one of the dead, who also happened to be a shaman or sorceress depending on the storyteller, retaliated by architecting a curse that would prove to be long remembered; “Any use of the waters of the great spirit for profit will never prosper“
Maybe the great spirit did spray a curse on those pine banks that day. Strangely enough, though it was slow coming, that’s exactly what happened.
Fire Water & Changing Times
White settlers began replacing Native Americans, who subsequently began to vanish from the land, and the springs’ reputation continued to grow.
In 1790, the first boarding house to offer accommodations and easy (uncharged) access to those marvelous waters was built nearby by a Major French. That number grew to 12 operating on both sides of the Connecticut River by 1820.
By 1845, people from as far away as coastal Maine were making the arduous journey to sample Vermont’s now celebrated healing springs – which among other things, were advertised as being able to treat a murderers row of maladies that included; inanimate limbs, vitality, kidney problems, consumption, and rheumatism.
The railroads soon followed, which would change Vermont’s economics and landscape forever, and make trips to the springs practically effortless. A train would deposit health seekers off at a depot in North Strafford, New Hampshire, where they would board a carriage that would bring them across the Connecticut River over to Brunswick.
Charles Bailey would erect the first hotel near the springs in 1860, which he then sold shortly after to local dentist D.C. Rowell. Mr. Rowell named his new endeavor the Brunswick Springs House, and would also be the first person in the history of the springs to sell them when he later opened a bottling plant. If there was a curse, maybe this was its first preternatural warning shot, when In 1894, The Brunswick Springs House burned to the ground.
Not to be deterred, the dentist rebuilt somewhere on the bluff between the lake and the river, this time as The Pine Crest Lodge. After that, history seems to have lost track of him until his death in 1910. The lodge would later collapse into the river after the foundation finally gave way due to erosion and changing water patterns and the springs were put back on the market and were ogled with temptation.
John Hutchins from across the river in North Strafford saw the springs as a sure economic victory. And why not? Hutchins was already a financially well off man, and that was partially ensured by a characteristic quality of early twentieth century businessmen; avarice.
His appetite for vanity and profit lead to a multifarious portfolio of accolades. He was a successful druggist, real estate agent, mortician, and expanded upon all that by buying up huge tracts of north country woodland and establishing himself as a lumber baron. But none of that seemed to be enough. To his vexation, Mr. Hutchins was never able to make any headway in politics, so he might have figured that the Brunswick Springs would be a jackpot of an investment to at least heighten his celebrity.
The watery emanates and their innate constituents would be a logical move. They’d merge together and extend two of his businesses; pharmaceuticals, and real estate. All over the world, grand resorts were emerging and profiting from their peculiar tasting waters, and he planned to make Vermont the next development.
If there was any talk of a “curse” at all, he didn’t let that deter his purchase, because his ambitions were far more significant than a mere spook story. Being able to sell “nature’s magic elixir” would surely set him apart from anyone he’d be competing with – especially now after no less of an authority than charismatic huckster Robert Ripley supplying national awareness.
It seemed he had a real skill of turning what he could see into business, and what a sight the Brunswick Springs were, and still are.
From the springs themselves, the view descends down towards the Connecticut River, and beyond that, the rugged White Mountains. Up the hill, a placid and tiny lake that backed up against the abraded granite hills of the kingdom. It was an entrepreneurial dream come true. So, Hutchins bought the place and chose a new spot to build a brand new resort hotel, with the waters as part of the levied package. On September 19th, 1929, the hotel burned down – gone before it even had its grand opening.
But Hutchins wasn’t the superstitious type, and he surely wasn’t going to give up something that had the potential to be so profitable, so he rebuilt. Only this time, he went all out.
He hired a Bloomfield contractor sort of ironically named Harry Savage, who drove his crew all through the long winter months to re-build. Savage was a man of his word, and the hotel was completed and ready to open its doors by the spring.
At the time, Hutchin’s new hotel would have been a remarkable rarity in northern Vermont. It was a dignified four and a half story construction with 60 rooms featuring plate glass windows with springs water piped into 30 of them.
Reservations poured in and anticipation for opening day was mounting.
But, on May 15th, 1930 – just a month before the hotel was set to open for business, the night watchman spotted smoke billowing from a storage room. By then it was too late. The phone lines were already superheated and snapped – cutting off communication while the building went down in fiery wreck.
I’m not sure just how much talk of the curse actually circulated (if any), and if John did know about it, how much he paid it any mind.
If he acknowledged of it, he certainly didn’t heed its ruinous insurance, despite losing two hotels in two years. Again, the willful Mr. Hutchins hired contractor Savage, and his crews worked through the winter to build another retreat. By spring of 1931, the new hotel was ready for business – advertised as a “modern city hotel nestling between the White and Green Mountains”
A colorful brochure was printed up (see scans 1,2 & 3) and widely distributed, advertising the “Medicine Waters of The Great Spirit” and their Native American mystique, which was bolstered by a thematic design scheme of woven patterns and a kneeling brave partaking in the magic fountain, which Hutchins still planned on charging for.
It was larger than its predecessor, featuring 100 rooms with Brunswick Springs water pumped into every one of them. Two brand new Packard limousines were also purchased to transport guests to and from the railroad depot.
On April 23rd, 1931, John C. Hutchin’s third and final hotel was struck down by inexplicable inferno. Maybe by now, he became a believer, because this time, he never tried to rebuild, and in the years that followed, neither has anyone else.
It seems the great spirit could finally stop counting up the days of vultures driving for temptations and their lust for glory. In Brunswick, anyways.
What really happened here? Historical records are full of fires murdering hotels. Surely this was just an odd chain of freak accidents, right? Well, one of Hutchin’s blazes was ultimately linked to the combustion of paint fumes in a storage room, but the other two still remain undiscovered.
It’s plausible that because of Hutchin’s hubris, those higher powers might not have been quite finished with the already stricken gentleman. Not long after the demise of his last hotel, his health rapidly declined until he passed away on March 22, 1938, at age 74.
Scouting
The acrid smell of sulfur told us we were close. That was a huge boon, actually, because I had no idea exactly where the springs were. Just that they were on an embankment above the Connecticut.
They and the surrounding lands have since returned back under Abenaki ownership, who formed a non-profit organization about a decade ago to purchase it with the help of the Vermont Land Trust. Now, they legally prevent any sort of development near the springs.
The springs were really the only reason to ever recognize Brunswick, and because of that, there’s an almost unnoticeable cartographical weirdness here. Old maps label the area as ‘Brunswick Springs’ instead of Brunswick, and even today, Google maps still tags the ‘village center’ as Brunswick Springs, regardless of the real-time aluminum road signs reading as just Brunswick.
We finally found the old logging road we’d have to walk, and parked our car along the side of a completely deserted Route 102 – which I think is a contender for Vermont’s quietest highway.
We actually spent a few moments just sitting in the car, lazily getting our gear together and listening to the almost startling silence of no cars or humans for a good ten minutes or so, before climbing out of my friend’s Subaru and preparing ourselves for getting our boots soaked. I was told by someone who had managed to track them down that the location isn’t easy for a non-local to find. That was a pretty accurate statement.
We followed the path into the woods, our feet continuously stumbling through snowdrifts with a flimsy layer of ice glazing the surface. It was an unseasonable (and as I’d find out later, record-breaking) 64 degrees, and bright noonday sun was filtering through trees in hibernation.
Then, we saw something on the trail ahead of us. Curiously, we trudged forward to get a better look at the cryptic artifact in the snow, which turned out to be a decoratively stitched handmade bag filled with rose petals. It was an offering of some sort. That was a good sign. The Abenaki still revere the area as a sacred one, and often come here and leave gifts to honor the springs and the spirits that twist and turn through the trees, so I hoped that meant we were at least on the right path, in a literal sense of that metaphor.
My hunch seemed to be correct when our path brought us skirting along Silver Lake. And then, to our right, I saw an unmissable worn concrete staircase leading down to the lakeshore. It was a fragment of the old hotel. We were close!
We walked a bit further, both of our spirits elevated at the discovery of the staircase. Then, we found more ancient ruins of the former business operations here. Another staircase plunging down a steeper pitch that the years had chipped away at, the ice-chunked waters of the Connecticut moving steadily southbound through the trees below. The smell of sulfur immediately overtook the formerly thin and sweet country air. We had made it!
I stood at the crest of the drop for a few minutes observing my surroundings, before joking that the real adventure would be descending the stairs. Though it was in the 60s, it was still February, which meant the steps were slick with treacherous ice that could easily send you to the hospital after sending you down into the river. The hillside beside the stairs didn’t seem like a much better way to travel down.
Death gripping onto lead pipe hand railings, we scrambled down to a cement landing at the bottom. There, rusted pipes running horizontally underneath the walkway channeled water from a green dyed pool sunken into the hillside, filled with white stringy forms that looked like hair that swayed in the currents.
A huge block the size of a dishwasher from some part of the rubble detached itself and fell down the embankment, coming to rest when its weight buried a corner into the earth. Other visitors left several offerings and totems here, from candles, rose peddles (which may have come from the discarded bag we found earlier), dream catchers and miscellaneous trinkets such as beads, glass bottles, seashells and colorful ribbons ornamented around tree branches.
As you can see from the obvious difference in my photos, I’ve made a few trips here. On my sophomore trip, It was nearing dusk as I set out for a walk in the woods. The wonderful smell of dead leaves followed me down what was left of an old logging road into a forest that was so quiet and still, it was starting to creep under my skin.
Then, I saw the unmistakable ruins of an early 20th-century mineral springs hotel, now only a few foundations and stairs leading to nowhere. I had missed the cellar hole of Hutchin’s hotel on my first sojourn and wanted to scout those out.
I wandered around before the night hummed in, hoping I’d find some old glass bottles or buttons or maybe even a pocket watch – something long dropped by a guest now long turned into dust. Then I scrambled back down the banks to the springs and their sulfuric perfume.
But did I sample the waters? No, just to be safe. While it’s understandable to get inspired by the parables, the code of conduct here is definitely caveat emptor.
The silence was deep and unseen specters probably skulked amongst the trees – and all of the stories I harkened about this place being a stomping ground for continuing life of the supernatural kind and other possible unsettling encounters, came to life.
I hastened my pace and headed back to the car.
So, what can be said about all this? Who can say for sure? Can a specific string of words actually belabor unfortunate victims?
All I can reckon is that the magical springs at Brunswick continue to flow freely.
And just as the sorceress predicted; no one has had any luck in profiting from them.
Since 2012, I’ve been seeking out venerable examples of Vermont weirdness, whether that be traveling around the state or taking to my internet connection and digging up forsaken places, oddities, esoterica, and unique natural features. And along the way, I’ve been sharing it with you on my website, Obscure Vermont. This is what keeps my spirit inspired.
I never expected Obscure Vermont to get as much appreciation and fanfare as it’s getting, and I’m truly grateful and humbled. Especially in recent years, where I’ve gained the opportunity to interact with and befriend more oddity lovers and outside the box thinkers around Vermont and New England. As Obscure Vermont has grown, I’ve been growing with it, and the developing attention is keeping me earnest and pushing me harder to be more introspective and going further into seeking out the strange.
I spend countless hours researching, writing, and traveling to keep this blog going. Obscure Vermont is funded almost entirely by generous donations. Expenses range from hosting fees to keep the blog live, investing in research materials, travel expenses and the required planning, and updating/maintaining vital tools such as my camera and my computer. I really pride and push myself to try to put out the best of what I’m able to create, and I gauge it by only posting stuff that I personally would want to see on the glow of my computer screen.
I want to continuously diversify how I write and the odd things I write about. Your patronage would greatly help me continue bringing you cool and unusual content and keep me doing what I love!
I can’t think of a better way to spend a holiday or long weekend than to go oddity hunting. Especially on a winter day that didn’t feel like winter.
I set out towards Southern Vermont to check out a place I had been hearing about through the rounds of social media for a while now; some otherworldly and kitschy ruins situated in a pine glen north of Brattleboro.
The whole thing was started in the epoch of the American road trip, by a pretty interesting New Jersey man named Jack Poppele in 1957.
Poppele started out as a pioneering radio man. Through his steadfast tinkering, he developed the first directional radio signal, the first portable radio and made stereo available on AM radio. Subsequently, he would start one of the nation’s first radio stations, WOR, out of his Newark, New Jersey home and run it himself. He even became the first person to broadcast on Christmas day in 1922.
Poppele also loved Christmas. So much so, it gave him enough weight and direction to his earnestness to build a roadside attraction dedicated to it a few decades later. He started his Christmas career in rural southern Vermont, and used the same equation that brought sucess and attention to most roadside Americana; he situated it on a major U.S. passageway; Route 5 – a decade before Interstate 91 would bypass a sundry of former industrial towns along the Connecticut River – a decision wielded with clout that would haunt a lot of Vermonters and leave a lot of communities divided and disconnected.
The coming of the interstate was a belief in progress, and Elbert Moulton, the state’s economic development chief, declared it as the thing that would bring Vermont “out of the sticks” into modern day America, and Senator George Aiken enthused “We’re on the verge of the greatest development Vermont has ever seen.” And he might have been right. Not many construction projects up here have matched its scale in its leveled and asphalted wake.
But with big change comes big displeasure from plenty of Vermonters.
64-year-old farmer Romaine Tenney from nearby Ascutney made national headlines in 1964 when he committed suicide and set his barns alight after coming to the heartbreaking realization that the new highway would slash through his farm, and despite all his melancholic stubbornness and refusal to leave the land he grew up on and loved more than anything, he couldn’t stop the pavement from literally approaching his front door. Not only did Tenney posthumously become a symbol of the curmudgeonly Vermont character, but the circumstances might just make exit 8 the most poignant spot along the whole state highway system.
The tourist trap, which was built like a homespun alpine “storybook village” on 42 shady acres complete with attractions like Christmas heritage informational signs erected around the winding pathways, a reindeer petting area, a variety of uncomplicated rides, a circulating locomotive and, of course, a Santa that would gently interrogate wide-eyed children about their Christmas wishes – would run about half a century.
Even an airstrip was built adjacent to the park. Today satellite imagery reveals that the clearing is still there, but a new-ish solar farm installed in the middle indicates that no planes are probably going to be landing there now. A gander at Google maps still marks the defunct strip as “Santa’s” with the blue and white spherical plane logo, and is actually the only indication the park even exists.
Popple’s passion wouldn’t be enough to imbue it with a long shelf-life. Various owners, growing disinterest in the measured property and eventual bankruptcy would eventually close it down in December of 2011. The Billewicz family would save the place from being completely auctioned off in 2013 and opened it back up on winter weekends, but the park was still sort of dilapidated then according to Seven Days when they visited. It sounds like it might just be part of the Santa’s Land experience.
Not long after, in 2014, it was closed again due to animal cruelty allegations after 18 animals were found dead at the park, and it’s been forsaken ever since. If someone is interested in buying and re-opening, they would probably have to pay an enormous bill just to get it back up to code. Man, this place just can’t catch a break.
I’ll be honest here, I’m not really into Christmas all that much. To me, the holiday is sort of gaudy and more of a to-do list and running errands and unwanted pressure. I prefer fun holidays like Halloween, it just matches my weirdo style more, and better yet, no obligations in sight. That probably doesn’t come as a surprise from someone who runs this sort of a blog though.
One of the reasons I put this on my road trip list was not just because it’s a charming part of Vermont obscura, but because of the weird things I kept vaguely hearing about this place over the past decade, including that people thought it was abandoned years before it actually closed down. The attraction seemed to have a weird, remiss vibe in between the nostalgia.
An amusing review of Roadside America’s trip here amusingly revealed a sort of surreal walk through a dysfunctional park that appeared to be run by a skeleton crew of 5 people. The best part was when they found a napping Santa, who awoke groggily and out of sorts at their presence, and then outright asked them if they wanted to buy the place, which was sort of a mood killer I would assume. Other memories included creepy static-y televisions left flickering in various deserted buildings and huge white blobs of, well, no one knows what, found along one of the pathways.
At one point, there was a unique and esoteric construction here called “The Igloo Pancake House”,- a restaurant built out of spray foam and considered to be somewhat rare in the realm of Americana – only another such structure was built similarly in the U.S. The concept was imagined in the 60s, with the thought that spraying wet polyurethane foam over gigantic balloons could be an answer to saving energy and was described as “turning over a Styrofoam cup and living in it!” But I guess not all Americans wanted to live in a styrofoam cup and the idea never really caught on.
The park was enthusiastically owned by the Brewer family in the 1970s, and they apparently lived in the spray foam house. But when Roadside America visited, it was decaying and forlorn looking. When I visited, I accidentally missed it. I wasn’t familiar with the property boundaries and kept to what I could see from my peripheral and out of sight of the road.
Walking Around
A candy cane propped sign marked the entrance, next to a vintage statue of Kris Kringle perched upon giant S and L alphabet blocks (which to your blogger’s frustration – my photo didn’t come out of for some reason). I’ll admit, I was curiously fired up after seeing that beacon. The cloistered Santa’s Land beckoned. Or, what hadn’t been removed yet by the last owners.
Everything after the candy stripped, balsam-scented gift shop I entered through flowed seamlessly with startling imagery that tangles Christmas and consumerism that seemed to almost radiate in the cold January sun.
I didn’t have an objective idea of what I was actually checking out, and what I found was a relic of dispersed dilapidation almost untouched from the late 1950s, a virtual Christmas grave built along evergreen clustered hills that rose around an artificial lake spanned by a ‘kissing bridge’. There were times when I thought this place was too Christmasy and gimmicky, but then again, I suppose that’s sort of the point. I’m certainly not in their desired demographic.
But one of the first spectacles I saw was intriguingly dissonant. It was a disturbing decapitated Humpty Dumpty statue, its humongous cranium fell from its body’s sitting perch on a faux stone wall and decays on a bed of dead leaves grinning madly at the canopy above, or in my case, directly at me and my camera lens. I grinned back and knew that was probably going to be my favorite photograph from this trip.
One of the coolest things I observed when I was roaming around the grounds was a cool, restored 1949 vintage carousel that was assembled on a wooded knoll, now covered in pine needles and left to Vermont’s mercurial weather to refurbish it.
Further in, there is a train depot and a set of neglected tracks behind it. According to a wayfinding sign, a 1976 C.P. Huntington locomotive once stopped there – a train that once made runs down the Detroit River wound up bringing tourists to bedecked sections of the park.
But it was evident that Santa’s Land was returning back to nature, and its desertion may be ironically bringing in more tourists. Antique sleighs were filled with dead leaves. Pine needles from past autumns collected on roofs and crevices of the ‘village downtown’ area. Some windows were broken, doors to various buildings were left wide open. Interiors were trashed and dusty. Kids had some fun with the snack bar menu at the ‘Candy Cane Cupboard’, offering up a whole new, un-family friendly smorgasbord of choices. The ‘iceberg slide’ looked sordid and the opposite of fun.
Everything was eerily haunting, and its location in the forest really helps push this vibe, as the woods and shadows help it be fantastical and mysterious without much help. Part of me almost felt this place belonged at the foot of some Bavarian alp than in the Connecticut River valley, and I should be craving a hot chocolate instead of a coffee with whiskey. It was completely immersive in its illusion because it’s buffered from the drone off Route 5 and any indication of a cluster of houses just north of the property line. It was strange and cozy at the same time.
In the beginning, it seems like Santa’s Land was a pretty cool and imaginative place, and if what I was able to dig up online was any indication, a lot of curiosity seekers, families, and Christmas fanatics really enjoyed it here.
Reality can often use some shuffling, especially nowadays. That’s why families used to come to places like this, and in my own way, that’s why I seek out the things you see on my blog.
Here’s a video shot by a passenger on the squeaky ‘Santa’s Land Express’ who informatively (and helpfully) points out various sites in the park.
Santa’s Land – January 2017
Interested in more decrepit northeastern Americana and Theme parks? Check out a few of my older blog entries of the remnants of that tourism era across the lake…
Since 2012, I’ve been seeking out venerable examples of Vermont weirdness, whether that be traveling around the state or taking to my internet connection and digging up forsaken places, oddities, esoterica, and unique natural features. And along the way, I’ve been sharing it with you on my website, Obscure Vermont. This is what keeps my spirit inspired.
I never expected Obscure Vermont to get as much appreciation and fanfare as it’s getting, and I’m truly grateful and humbled. Especially in recent years, where I’ve gained the opportunity to interact with and befriend more oddity lovers and outside the box thinkers around Vermont and New England. As Obscure Vermont has grown, I’ve been growing with it, and the developing attention is keeping me earnest and pushing me harder to be more introspective and going further into seeking out the strange.
I spend countless hours researching, writing, and traveling to keep this blog going. Obscure Vermont is funded almost entirely by generous donations. Expenses range from hosting fees to keep the blog live, investing in research materials, travel expenses and the required planning, and updating/maintaining vital tools such as my camera and my computer. I really pride and push myself to try to put out the best of what I’m able to create, and I gauge it by only posting stuff that I personally would want to see on the glow of my computer screen.
I want to continuously diversify how I write and the odd things I write about. Your patronage would greatly help me continue bringing you cool and unusual content and keep me doing what I love!
It only believes In a pile of dead leaves And a moon That’s the color of bone
– Tom Waits
This Italianate corpse in this lonesome Vermont village was actually an amazing portal into the past despite its rampant decay, with an impressive amount of vintage influences left behind since its abandonment decades ago. Many of these things were from the swanky 70s, though, and sort of brought this almost sleazy weight down upon the coalesce.
When I pulled into town that day, the wind was strong, and once you got a block away from the village’s historic downtown neighborhood that followed a few blocks along a well-attended state route, it got pretty quiet, and the few older folks outside raking leaves in the cold or strolling down crumbling sidewalks gave us strangers suspect sideways glances. The never-ending stream of traffic yet permeating silence and deserted storefronts gave the village a surreal aura. But history manifests itself deeply up that way. I bet every house has a few skeletons in their closets, maybe even in a sense that isn’t metaphorical.
The paling yellow property that held my interest had grown wild and is now a grave – its overgrowth clung to my jeans and stung my face as I attempted to make my way around the back of the house, away from the open road where there’d be people wondering what a fella like me was doing inching closer to a place like this.
Indeterminable lumps of gross garbage and things tossed behind the house were awkward to scramble over as I made my way towards a rotten back porch and my way inside; a broken window. Entering through the passage allowed me to now admire an astonishing specimen of wall decomposition with the characteristic folds of sagging paint and still impressive ephemera around me falling to pieces with no other informative signs to be seen, making a mockery out of human virtues of order and hygiene.
Depending on what side of the house you were on dictated the rate of decay. Some areas still had strong bones and beautiful masculine woodwork. Pocket doors with gilded ornamentation within their door handles and a stairwell with remarkable newel posts of my secret desires – while the other section had completely given into descending, due to how sections of roof are holding up. Parts had partially or entirely collapsed, concealing whatever secrets they had underneath chunks of rubble, making it pretty difficult to forensically reassembling any layers of this corpse that are still available.
Not depending on which part of the house we were in; most all rooms had a bit of uncreatively crass graffiti scribbled onto the walls, usually telling about a girl or some sort of unpleasant sounding coitus. I thought the most hilarious tag I came across was the fact that someone actually spraypainted the name of the town onto the wall of the parlor.
And then there was something off about this broke down palace. Sounds carried all too well inside its curating rot that was a flimsy shell of its former grandeur. Voices transmitted in the wind and we were pretty sure we heard an old woman talking to US at one point when we went upstairs – as if ‘she’ was in the house. Though my friend seemed to be more sensitive to that particular happening than I was at the time. Some relics of occupation had been left behind, but most of them were completely ruined by neglect and various collapses over the decades.
Awkwardly clambering my way up a wobbly staircase, I found myself sitting in a tipsy old cupola in delight and taking in the morning, the village noises, and the views with a damn good cup of coffee enhancing my solitude. This house was a real treat.
Even in the midst of that howling weather that dolefully cried through broken windows, rotting wood, and continuously banged the door of a rusted clunker sitting in a nearby trailer’s driveway.
Which really makes me shake my head all the more at writing ‘what a shame’. If only building trends returned to something meaningful and crafted instead of cookie cuttered, cheap drywalled crap.
What sort of things culminate into making something become forsaken and disheveled? I don’t think I’ll ever not be fascinated by human beings.
Stranger still; when we crawled out a window to take our leave, a woman’s voice intoned somewhere from a distance behind dead lilacs, and said; “leaving already?”
I’m looking for stories of Vermont and Vermonters (or New England, Quebec and anywhere else if it’s worth the drive – even if it’s a day’s haul. Please contact me if you have some weirdness you’d like to share! Help me keep this website imbued with content!
Since 2012, I’ve been seeking out venerable examples of Vermont weirdness, whether that be traveling around the state or taking to my internet connection and digging up forsaken places, oddities, esoterica, and unique natural features. And along the way, I’ve been sharing it with you on my website, Obscure Vermont. This is what keeps my spirit inspired.
I never expected Obscure Vermont to get as much appreciation and fanfare as it’s getting, and I’m truly grateful and humbled. Especially in recent years, where I’ve gained the opportunity to interact with and befriend more oddity lovers and outside the box thinkers around Vermont and New England. As Obscure Vermont has grown, I’ve been growing with it, and the developing attention is keeping me earnest and pushing me harder to be more introspective and going further into seeking out the strange.
I spend countless hours researching, writing, and traveling to keep this blog going. Obscure Vermont is funded almost entirely by generous donations. Expenses range from hosting fees to keep the blog live, investing in research materials, travel expenses and the required planning, and updating/maintaining vital tools such as my camera and my computer. I really pride and push myself to try to put out the best of what I’m able to create, and I gauge it by only posting stuff that I personally would want to see on the glow of my computer screen.
I want to continuously diversify how I write and the odd things I write about. Your patronage would greatly help me continue bringing you cool and unusual content and keep me doing what I love!
I was told that some have called this place “the village of secrets”, because after its philanthropically intended inception, it instead aged into a shameful place intended to be unseen and hushed from the public.
Its actual name is Letchworth Village, its unfortunate moniker (when I brought it up to a few explorer buddies, they all returned with something like; “Letch-worth? That sounds terrible! What is it?”) was named after the distinguished humanitarian who pretty much conceptualized the place; William Pryor Letchworth. Construction began in 1908 and it was ready by 1911 to shelter the “feeble-minded and epileptic” – or any youth who basically couldn’t take care of themselves or were a danger to others.
At the time, the architected property and its ethos were incredibly innovative – lauded as what should become the new model of treatment of the developmentally disabled, with hopes that time here would increase the chances of many of them actually gaining the necessary skills to return to society and make a life for themselves.
Taking inspiration from the Kirkbride design where a serene country setting could aid in helping cure, or at least quell mental ailments, they chose some 2,362 acres of gentle hills at the crux of three towns; Haverstraw, Thiells and Stony Point in the palisaded Ramapos, with Minnisceongo Creek carving through the almost middle and acting as a contrived delineation of asylum culture.
The grounds were interspersed with several buildings, which gave it the appearance of a village. Each was limited to one or two stories and aesthetically took inspiration from Monticello or from Greek architecture. Almost all the dormitories had column girded entrances fronting hand cut flagstone facades that today, only add an uneasy gothic feel to them.
Letchworth’s design followed several rules when treating/caring for the institutionalized. Basically, boys and girls weren’t allowed to mingle and were separated in different areas on opposite creek banks. Then, they’d be distributed again based on how severely disabled they were.
The patient living quarters were arranged in six groups of cottages laid out in U-shaped patterns with lots of open space and wood patches in between. In the center of each horseshoe were a dining hall and kitchen and a hall used as a theater and a gym. Not far from each cluster was a physician’s and attendant’s home.
Other buildings incorporated administrative offices, a laboratory, library, firehouse, power plant, waste disposal, a medical building and a farm colony – where until the 1960s, the able-bodied worked where they raised enough food and livestock to feed the entire population, making it a practically self-sustaining community.
But it didn’t take long for Letchworth’s magnanimity to begin writhing in the deep anguish of grief which conjured indelible disconcerts that still haunt its remains.
Unable to deny consent, many resident unfortunates became unwitting science experiments and test subjects – something that became sinister regulars in the Letchworth code of conduct. In 1950, the first human trials of the very experimental polio vaccine happened here. When the first child didn’t die, they tested nineteen more.
Another infamous anecdote tells of brain specimens harvested from deceased adolescents and stored in jars of formaldehyde, then shelved on perverse display in the laboratory. Until a few years ago, a few urban explorers actually admitted to finding some of those jars still in the basement of the medical building, but when I scouted my way there, were nowhere to be found. I seem to be pretty late to the Letchworth party, and many of the artifacts and scenery I’ve seen through photographs has been disappointingly damaged beyond recognition or removed entirely.
By the 1950s, Letchworth had become exactly what it was created to circumnavigate; a human dumping cache. In the early and mid 20th century, the mentally retarded were treated like second-class citizens, many of which were shipped off to varying institutions. A huge increase in enrollment struck Letchworth and it just couldn’t accommodate. Many of the inhabitants became sickly and/or malnourished, sleeping on excrement sopped mattresses crammed in hallways and dayrooms because the already meager, untrained and overwhelmed staff were tasked with the impossible – leading some to turn to auxiliary detriment. There were no tools for personal growth, and seemingly no future, a sentiment that can wreck just about anyone.
Conditions became so hellish that then-local reporter Geraldo Rivera took a tour around the hospital with a film crew to document the atmosphere, alongside another soon to be notorious New York asylum, Willowbrook. The result was a scandalous and galvanizing documentary called “The Last Disgrace”, which would air on ABC and essentially shake the public hornets’ nest and sight the place in a now contemptuous gaze.
Letchworth followed the plot of many other period asylums and shut down for good by 1996. The state has made efforts to sell the blighted property, with mixed results. Most of the land was supposed to be condo-ed in 2004, but as of 2017, that still hasn’t happened. However, this now sprawling landscape of failure has had some redemption.
Fieldstone middle school and two golf courses (it’s always a golf course…) make use of several buildings and adjoining tracts of the former girl’s group. Taking a gander at Google maps, I also see the Stony Point Justice Court and the local parks and rec department have taken up residency in other buildings and Kirkbride Hall seems to be nicely restored.
I heard over the social media machine that Lego Land, of all things, was possibly looking at the remaining estate a few years back, but so far, that terrible re-development plan also hasn’t arrived yet.
A forlorn paupers burying yard lies in a hollow on the fringes of the state school at the end of a barely used wooded path. Here, a crooked group of ankle height Ts are staked into the ground, each bearing a different number. These are the graves of those who died at Letchworth. Only, it was considered to be dishonorable to the family to include the identity of these poor invalids, so the 900 dead were simply given a number that further devalued and shamed them. Recently, a monument with a plaque was erected at the cemetery with the names of all the dead inscribed in list form, with a fitting epitaph; To Those Who Shall Not Be Forgotten. I missed the cemetery on my first visit, so I plan on taking a walk over next time.
Too many buildings, not enough time (Letchworth, part 1)
It was a suspenseful 5-hour drive from Vermont, and I was already feeling drained of stamina as we rolled into Haverstraw, New York. Apparently, we were traveling through an area with some pretty rad state parks that take advantage of all the cliffs and their views, but no, my tired, one track mind was devoted to our original mission. Up over a declining bend and a slight hill still decorated with worn out faux historical street lamps, I caught my first glimpse of the massive dilapidatedproperty through undressed oaks.
Finding a place to park, we clambered out of the car, stretched our stiff limbs, and made a beeline for the campus posted with plenty of signs declaring war on trespassers. This was my inaugural visit and I was already feeling a bit pressured to make the most of our hours here, partially because I’m a control freak thanks to my anxiety disorder.
Letchworth’s name seems to have a hyped haunted status for the usual reasons; the many people who suffered and perished here. Paranormal eccentricities are often tourists here, running through the sprawling decay with camcorders – including spook chasers with their own television shows. The asylum’s vine-encumbered ruins that are outlined in sadness are perfect for these legends. Most photos I’ve seen of Letchworth have been shot when the property was in full bloom and green, so shooting it during the starkness of early spring formed a completely different vibe.
Many of the fetid interiors still contain patients’ clothes and eerie artifacts, and quite a few had the gruesome scars of disbanded paintball matches played inside.
The medical building, in particular, is said to be Letchworth’s most haunted, and though I’m generally an interested skeptic when it comes to matters of the paranormal, I discovered that while inside building, the ghosts really did come out.
Days after I had been there, I was uploading a few of my photos to my Instagram account and had mentioned that I was plagued with frustrating and inexplicable camera malfunctions, which de-focused a little less than half of my attempted shots inside. While I was bumming about that, I had a few Instagrammers pick up on my caption, and open up about similar experiences they had in the medical building as well. I’m not saying it was anything preternatural, but it certainly was a strange coincidence.
I felt a buzzing uneasiness while walking around inside the medical building. The basement area was the worst. I couldn’t explain it, but moments into our venturing into dark shadows swearing down its wide corridors, my nerves were on fire and irritation crawled up over me. There was a moment where I actually felt like packing up my camera gear, disappointing my friend, and just getting the hell out of there, which made me sort of miserable seeing how exploring is one of my favorite ways to spend my time. And then there was an incessant clout bang that we could hear perpetually throughout the building. The third-floor hallway acted as a wind tunnel, slamming all of its wooden doors violently in their frames, an unforgettable noise that gave a voice to each and every ghost inside.
Or maybe, my unshakable moods were well validated. After doing some post-adventure research, I discovered that quite a few explorers had a startling encounter with a lurking danger in the innards of that same building – one that was more threatening than spectral bullies. A young woman and a little girl were assumedly squatting in the foul and slimy basement areas, and she was territorial. A few explorers said that they were almost decked in the head by that woman, who was wielding a log. After they explained to the log lady that they were just there to take some pictures, the tension of the weird situation evaporated into the loathsome smells caused by rotting ceiling tiles and papers fermenting into a soupy viscosity. But imagine if you were unlucky enough to not have that time to react…
I’ll have to make a return trip here, there was too much to see and not enough time. I was fighting Lyme disease then, so my energy levels weren’t in tune with my adventure.
And strangely, I’ll forever associate Jesus and Mary Chain’s Just Like Honey with Letchworth, as it was the song crawling around in my head while I was walking the corridors of the medical building. I even cued it on Spotify while writing this post up.
These grim yet fascinating ruins are an unabashed and raw museum of the human condition, and I really hope and urge that we learn from them and other places like this to build a better reality for all of us.
Since 2012, I’ve been seeking out venerable examples of Vermont weirdness, whether that be traveling around the state or taking to my internet connection and digging up forsaken places, oddities, esoterica, and unique natural features. And along the way, I’ve been sharing it with you on my website, Obscure Vermont. This is what keeps my spirit inspired.
I never expected Obscure Vermont to get as much appreciation and fanfare as it’s getting, and I’m truly grateful and humbled. Especially in recent years, where I’ve gained the opportunity to interact with and befriend more oddity lovers and outside the box thinkers around Vermont and New England. As Obscure Vermont has grown, I’ve been growing with it, and the developing attention is keeping me earnest and pushing me harder to be more introspective and going further into seeking out the strange.
I spend countless hours researching, writing, and traveling to keep this blog going. Obscure Vermont is funded almost entirely by generous donations. Expenses range from hosting fees to keep the blog live, investing in research materials, travel expenses and the required planning, and updating/maintaining vital tools such as my camera and my computer. I really pride and push myself to try to put out the best of what I’m able to create, and I gauge it by only posting stuff that I personally would want to see on the glow of my computer screen.
I want to continuously diversify how I write and the odd things I write about. Your patronage would greatly help me continue bringing you cool and unusual content and keep me doing what I love!
My home state of Vermont has much in the way of oddities, but abandoned castles don’t make the list. So when I heard of one in downstate New York, I had a road trip planned in a few weeks to see it.
My friend and I drove through the often long haul destitution of the Catskill Park, an area I’ve already become familiar with. You know you’re in the Catskills when all of the green road signs that label whatever river your crossing over marks them as “kills”, (the other detail is when you figure out none of the towns have gas stations). It might seem strangely morbid, but it’s actually the old Dutch word for creek or river, as opposed to the English equivalent. It’s a cool regional quirk. (Vermont has the fly fishing famed Batten Kill, which is redundantly labeled on state atlases as the ‘Batten Kill River’).
Atop a dim ledged hill above a picturesque river, I would get my first glimpse of this incredible ruin through thick woods that would ultimately conceal it from view, if you weren’t only on that particular back road looking for a castle like we were. This place was something else. The sight of it made me drop my jaw – it was both eerie and serene.
I think it’s in our profiling nature to assume fanciful remains like these accrete some sort of spooky lore or gothic mystic, especially when you add several decades of forsakenness letting weather and moss transmuting what was once a soaring vanity project into a projection of arcane frenzy. Even the history is enigmatic, which has given birth to quite a few myths and whispers of curses that bounce off its turrets and stone walls.
The castle was the idea of gilded aged businessman Ralph Werts Dundas. And this is where the research gets a bit convoluted. In my inquiry, a few blogs have paid some interest to this place, and the general agreement is that the history here is a bit nebulous – each page describes a slightly different storyline.
Not much is known about Mr. Dundas, other than he was born in 1871 and would eventually become a wealthy man. He wound up marrying, had a daughter, and was known to be a bit of a recluse. He also carried a penchant of becoming a Scotish Laird, in America. Because Laird’s had to have a castle to push their legitimacy card, he wound up buying about 1,000 acres in the Catskills to build one on.
Before Mr. Dundas installed his enigmatic castle, a chunk of the land was owned by Joseph Cammer, a farmer and enthusiastic fisherman who earned a reputation by letting other outdoorsmen from New York City and surrounding Catskill towns board on his land. This eventually attracted the venerable architect, Bradford Lee Gilbert. Mr. Gilbert liked the area so much, that himself and another boarder, Frank Livingston, got to talking and concluded they wanted to buy some of the Cammer property and build a hunting lodge there. They struck up a deal, were joined by three other interested men, and began construction on what would be called the Beaverkill Lodge towards the late 1880s.
A couple of years passed, and Mr. Gilbert wanted the property for himself, so he bought out Mr. Livingston and the other members. He worked on enlarging the lodge from a modest log cabin and purchased more land to buffer it with. His wife, an Irish immigrant, named the area “Craig-E-Claire” – a Gaelic toponym for “beautiful mountain” that reminded her of her native Ireland and is still adhered to the area on both a street sign and a place name label on Google maps. But they only wound up spending a few weekends out of the year at the lodge, and eventually lost interest and decided to sell. Sometime before the 1920s (sources vary with either 1907 or 1915), Ralph Dundas would acquire the plot.
Some accounts say that Bradford Lee Gilbert was the one who architected Dundas’s castle, and that’s sort of true. He at least provided some of the framework. Instead of tearing down the Beaverkill Lodge and building over it, Dundas decided to build around and consume the lodge, and then keep expanding.
Around World War 1, the castle began to take shape looming above the river. 30 Finnish masons assembled it with leaded windows and hand laid stone walls, stone by stone, which legend holds that in some parts of the castle are 3 feet thick. Conical towers with gothic windows and steep parapeted roofs added great architectural flourishes and made this abandonment so much cooler to find out in the woods.
The insides were said to be just as generous, with steam radiators and electricity being added, which were amazing luxuries at the time. The floors and countertops were done with marble which was possibly imported from Italy, and legend has it that a few of the fireplaces were accentuated with gold leafing. Mr. Dundas even had exquisite furnishings and dexterously woven tapestries crated and shipped to the castle to decorate it with.
But Dundas wasn’t the least stressful of employers. He was a very particular visionary, who had a habit of adding lots of spontaneous changes to the blueprints, often making the laborers tear down entire finished sections of the castle to rebuild it again to his partialities. But regardless, we can at least agree that his fussiness created an astounding home. A home that he would never get to see.
Dundas dies in 1921, but work continued until the castle was completed in 1924 – the final structure was “L” shaped, with 2 curtain walls completing a rectangle and creating a Scottish style bailey in the middle.
His wife Josephine, who was known for being emotionally unstable, suffered from some sort of undocumented malady, which may have been a form of dementia. She was eventually committed to a sanitarium. A creepy legend that seems to be widely trafficked about this place, is that Dundas actually locked his wife away in one of the upper bedrooms without an interior doorknob to keep her worsening disposition out of public scandal.
While those details are a bit hard to parse, what we do know is that their daughter Muriel suddenly came into a lot of money.
She was either completely swindled by the man she married (which may have been a hired caretaker of the castle) or made the decision herself to travel to England to find King James’ lost gold, using her substantial fortune to pick up the bill. She recruited the best scientists, historians and even a dowser and mystic who used a willow wand, but all efforts proved fruitless. By then, those around her considered her insane, and she was committed to an asylum for the remainder of her days.
The keep and its interior riches gathered dust and remained abandoned until it was sold to more thematically fitting owners in the 1940s; the Freemasons. But they never wound up doing anything with the great building, and instead, for reasons unknown, let the place enter multiple decade stasis. Today, the property is off limits, and it’s said that a groundskeeper may live in one of the former castle outbuildings just down the road.
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I only knew of the castle’s vague location, without knowing much else about it – driving down back roads that traversed through a serpentine river glen and – apparently – through a now-famous “paper town”, until I eventually spotted one of its towers through the trees wearing their seasonal verdures.
We found a level-ish shoulder to pull off onto, gathered our gear, and hurried over into the forest cover and up the rocky slope – which at times was surprisingly steep – until we could reach out and touch the stone bulwarks. An up-close look revealed that saplings and sneaking moss were growing freely around the thoughtful stonework and beginning to take root inside the gutters. If the beleaguered prowess of nature isn’t decreased, this place will really look like an ancient ruin in a decade or so. The visual made all the adulated baggage this hunk of rock and slate carries pretty believable.
That was further reinforced by a thunderstorm that began to rage overhead when I was inside, making my explore so much more surreal as shadowed light fell in all directions. The only mood killer was an Ace Of Base song climbing around in my head from my friend’s Best of The 90s playlist on Spotify.
Passing through the climactic barbican into the bailey, we found our way inside and made for a set of spiraled marble stairs climbing up one of the turrets – when my friend noticed “To The Kill Room!” scrawled in red spray paint on the wall with an arrow pointing crookedly towards the ascent upstairs. I heard a resolute “nope” uttered behind me, and I turned around to see her heading back towards where we climbed in. “I’ll just wait for you outside”.
Now on my lonesome, I moved silently through this literal monument to the epoch of American industrialism and prosperity. A walk through the anachronistic property today is a weird one. Though the lower floors were blackened due to boarded windows, its incredible attention to detail and marvelous stonework could be detected and appreciated through the shine of my flashlight. Upstairs, gray light came through and cast the hallways and the bones of ornate chambers into a dull pallor. Old push button light switches and 4 prong electrical sockets on the walls sort of break the otherwise ‘fairy tale’ illusion here, bringing a castle that remarkably looks ancient into 20th century America. There was even a functional dumbwaiter, (or ‘baby shoot’, as someone re-invented it in black sharpie) where meals from the kitchen could be ferried upstairs to the bed chambers. The castle was sending me the weight of its silence, with the only pause being summer breezes pushing around all the dead leaves that had long collected inside the vacant rooms.
I’m a little late on exploring out of state locations, so a great deal of what I see through the photography of others isn’t what I’m greeted with in real time. Dundas’s castle had lots more vandalism, and the few surviving glass window panes on the third story had by then, all been shattered. This is why I’m obscure about many places I write about. But despite that, the castle was in really good shape – most likely because of its robust construction and not being near much of a population. I wonder if anyone will ever revive it? Or will this go the way of many fascinating sites in America and become something only recalled in wistful stories?
Before departing, we headed down the road a ways to get a look at the defunct iron front gates that once opened up to a gravel carriage road that gradually climbed the ridge crest, went underneath a castle arch and inserted you in the central courtyard. Today, the intricately rusted doors and nudging stone abutments are all that remain – the path has since transitioned into a mowed lawn and make the former grand entry way even more conspicuous in its location at a 3-way intersection.
Being Memorial Day weekend, the huge regional park I happened to be near was crawling with people in trucks and camping gear on almost all the back roads. After I pulled over to shoot this cool entryway, I had multiple strangers in trucks pull over and have rolled down window conversations with me as if I was an old friend, including an awesome middle aged couple who enthusiastically talked about the castle and other Catskillian esoterica.
Being Memorial Day weekend, it also brought out the foolhardy. As we turned around and drove back down the road, we noticed that 3 state police cruisers, 3 officers, a Ford Focus, and 5 bummed looking teenagers appeared outside the castle.
I think local historian Dr. Joyce Conroy reckoned best when she mused that the strangest thing to her about the castle, was how no one has ever been able to live on that land.
Since 2012, I’ve been seeking out venerable examples of Vermont weirdness, whether that be traveling around the state or taking to my internet connection and digging up forsaken places, oddities, esoterica, and unique natural features. And along the way, I’ve been sharing it with you on my website, Obscure Vermont. This is what keeps my spirit inspired.
I never expected Obscure Vermont to get as much appreciation and fanfare as it’s getting, and I’m truly grateful and humbled. Especially in recent years, where I’ve gained the opportunity to interact with and befriend more oddity lovers and outside the box thinkers around Vermont and New England. As Obscure Vermont has grown, I’ve been growing with it, and the developing attention is keeping me earnest and pushing me harder to be more introspective and going further into seeking out the strange.
I spend countless hours researching, writing, and traveling to keep this blog going. Obscure Vermont is funded almost entirely by generous donations. Expenses range from hosting fees to keep the blog live, investing in research materials, travel expenses and the required planning, and updating/maintaining vital tools such as my camera and my computer. I really pride and push myself to try to put out the best of what I’m able to create, and I gauge it by only posting stuff that I personally would want to see on the glow of my computer screen.
I want to continuously diversify how I write and the odd things I write about. Your patronage would greatly help me continue bringing you cool and unusual content and keep me doing what I love!
Being a storyteller is somewhere in my framework. I’d like to think that’s the crux of this blog, to tell stories. This blog has lots of long-winded stories. It’s just one of those things that you’re gonna have to live with for giving an emotionally unstable person a keyboard and a WiFi connection. (That’s me) And whatever it is that I have to tell wouldn’t be complete without the mention of this place.
When I first started this blog, I made sure this was one of the first subjects I posted about, because it was, and still is such a big deal to me, following me around like a phantom through different stages of my life.
The chiseled granite block along the disintegrating roof line reads “Milton Co-operative Dairy Corporation”. Most folks in town call it “the creamery” unless you’re one of the few who are unaware of what the corroding property used to be. I’ve heard people speculate plenty of things, including a train station, a munitions factory or an armory.
The rambling building made of patchwork additions is off a side street in town, and the years run down its crumbling facade. Its forsakenness is obvious. Young trees have grown around and inside the building, disfiguring the structure. If you catch a glimpse through any of the broken windows or an open doorway, you witness a dark world made of peeling lead paint, reservoired floors and piles of fallen bricks, all cast in various shadows in the places the shine of the sun penetrates its way inside. In a state as non-industrial as Vermont, this location is truly a magnificent way to get your senses drunk. And it was this dangerous, virulent location that changed my life around age 12.
Around 1835, Milton’s agriculture scene shifted fads, from sheep based farming, to more profitable dairy. The town saw an increase in farming in the intervening years which began to put a strain on Milton’s original creamery, The Whiting Creamery, located off Main Street near where Oliver Seed is today. By 1919, many Milton farmers got together to form a dairy co-op. They built their headquarters on Railroad Street, a side street off Main Street, which today is one of the village’s primary thoroughfares. At the time, Main Street was actually the Main Street in town, and because titular Railroad Street paralleled the tracks, it was practical real estate.
The building was done unconventionally, with a steel I-beam construction and stucco facade installed over bricks, which according to the late owner of the ruins, was a design unique for anywhere in Vermont at the time. Miltoner John McGrath would become the first president of the co-op. Over time, the creamery’s business ignited, as more farmers from Milton, and rural parts of northern Chittenden County and Southern Franklin County were sending their milk to be processed there – and shipped out. A lot of the revenue made by the creamery actually came from exotic foreign locations they shipped the milk to, like Boston and New York, via the aforementioned railroad that runs inches from behind the building.
In 1935, the creamery would expand for the first time at the height of the great depression in a conspicuous brick addition that today is the worst part of the complex. While most money-making things in the United States were prostrate in defeat, the railroads and the dairy industry seemed to be staying steady. Over the years, several more additions came along, and when cars became common, garages and a scale room were built, until the current uniquely shaped structure that exists today was finished. Those who can remember the creamery when it was functioning said that it was one of the largest creameries in western Vermont. During its most prosperous years, it would do over $5 million worth of business in a year, and employed 50 people. According to a homeless fella I accidentally met that briefly lived in a tent near the tracks behind the building, he recalled his father working there. “I remember how bad the milk lab used to smell” he said in fervent disgust at the memory. “Used to stink so bad, you could smell it down Railroad Street!”
During the cold war, the basement area was also designated as a fallout shelter, an appointed place to seek safety in case of nuclear destruction. Though, a practical observation at the grimy basement now days tells the visitor that the apocalyptic urgency so many people in the 50s were subscribing to would have easily vaporized anyone who decided to wait it out down there. Until recently, a badly warped caution-yellow sign that read “Fallout Shelter” in black lettering could be seen crookedly hanging from a concrete wall. Some local kid most likely stole it for a memento and hung it in their bedroom.
However, as time flowed, business practices changed, and the creamery soon found itself cutting its teeth on the stone of the changing times. McGrath would resign as president in 1953, and Ray Rowley, from another long-standing dairy family in town, would take control. But the Co-Op was already shaking hands with its mortality.
By the 1960s, the creamery’s fate seemed poised to continue percolating in some downward lament. A decline in dairy farming led to a decline in dairy – the stuff that created the business in the first place. It was around this time when bigger monopolies began to appear on the scene, a trend which has only intensified since then. Larger and more resourced operations like HP Hood in Burlington were hard to compete with, and the growing struggle of irrelevancy disarmed many smaller businesses. Sort of ironic is that HP Hood is also long gone, the old plant on the corner of King and South Winooski has been modernly renovated into condos and mixed commercial space, as is the cool trend with defunct industrial properties.
The last 2 decades of the creamery’s life were slow death. Fluctuating milk prices and the cost of refining didn’t show up in the farmers’ paychecks, which irritated some of them. I can’t say I blame them, farming is hard work. A crude barn shaped structure was built next door, and was ran as “The Milton General Store” for a while – an appendage of the creamery. Those who still remember it, say that it was the kind of place where you could literally buy anything – from nails to maple syrup, and had a distinct “dusty workshop smell” inside. But that attempt at savior failed as well, and by 1974, the creamery became a ghost.
The building was put up for sale, and shortly afterward, was purchased by a local gentleman who used it as storage space for his many antiques and the miscellany he either collected or hoarded. That line was a blurry one. But it was clear that this guy was of his own sort. Sadly, mental instability and his own demons got the best of him, and one of the consequences was that he neglected the place. His paraphernalia became either stolen by characters who have no moral issues with thievery, or what was left behind rotted away when the building began to progressively weaken, and rats began to nest inside.
I had struck up a few conversations with the owner before in my teenage years. I used to work at a local gas station then, which was a crash course on social skills for this young Aspergian and his seemingly incompetent switchboards, but the struggles also brought some worthy experiences. Like getting to know him a little better whenever he’d stop in. I knew who he was, but our getting acquainted was a bit coincidental. He’d see me working and just start chatting with me if he was in my proximity, but he seemed a bit lonely and he’d chat with anyone willing to lend an ear. Over time, he began to recognize me as a regular working stiff and always made a point to have some sort of small talk with me, on his own terms anyways. I found out that he was a pundit on Milton history, or really the old in general. I’d risk getting reprimanded by my shift manager and have conversations with him about local history and things I found to be fascinating – information that I didn’t have access to anywhere else. But due to his schizophrenic-esque behaviors, I had to try to be mindful of how I engaged with him.
I found out about his death in the summer of 2016, which saddened me a little. I’m sure he had so many stories and secrets that he took to his grave with him that we’ll just never know. I always contemplated taking the time to contact him and ask for an interview, but anxiety got the best of me. The creamery was hastily and quietly sold, and condos were spoken of. I suppose the momentum didn’t surprise me. Milton-ites have wanted to get rid of the scorned property for decades. Which is also why I’m re-submitting this blog post. The creamery wasn’t just the first place I had ever explored, it was a huge part of my adolescence. I’ve never dealt with change that well, so when I got word of a change coming up in the form of the creamery’s possible demolition, I decided I needed a fond farewell.
I’m going to borrow a quote from the late Leonard Cohen, when he said; “I’m interested in things that contribute to my survival”. The creamery (and Mr. Cohen) has contributed greatly and artfully to my survival and I’m forever grateful. It’s weird to think about as I’m reminiscing and drinking a beer right now – how different would my life have been if I didn’t grow up in walking distance of this place? Did any of you folks have an abandoned building in your hometown, or a place that was a local rite of passage to visit as a kid? Do you have any stories of your first adventure?
Over the years, I struck up a friendship with the great folks at the Milton Historical Society, and one of my first research topics was the creamery. Sadly, not a great deal of information about it really carried over the turn of the most recent century. For the most part, I compiled all the usable information I could in the paragraphs above this one. But that’s not all. Museum curator Lorinda Henry was kind enough to scan for me some historical photographs of the business in operation, and portraits of its employees.
Folklore
I think one of the most memorable things about the creamery, and my childhood affixion to it, were the ghastly urban legends and ghost stories that the older kids told me, a ritual I continued when I aged. Stories that created an inseparable impression about the place.
Murder
I still remember the first story I was told, which I think is also the most popular one in some variation or another. The story of the murdered janitor. Essentially, two custodians were working graveyard shift, and a known rivalry was between them. That particular night, one of them would let all of his animosity towards the other cut loose like a pressure valve. Somehow, one of them fell off of a two story catwalk which is suspended above the scale room, broke his neck when he hit the concrete, and died in the building. The motive, whether it was preempted murder or a moment of unchecked anger isn’t translated into this tale. But the aftermath is. The other employee realized the gravity of what just happened, and he was frightened. He’d be blamed. He’d go to prison! No, he couldn’t let that happen. So, he decided to make his co-worker’s death look like a suicide.
Transporting the body upstairs, he hung him from a meat hook in one of the coolers, hoping when the corpse was discovered the next day, that’s exactly what the shocked observers would believe. Only, they didn’t, and apparently, according to an increasingly vague story line, the assaulting janitor was accused of the crime. The story splits into a few endings from here. One says he was arrested, acquitted and sentenced to prison. Another version tells that he skipped town, and successfully vanished from those who wished to prosecute him. As the older kids told me, the residue of the departed janitor still skulks around the building, which seems to be his tomb in the afterlife. Though not much is known about his apparent haunting, people have admitted to feeling uncomfortable inside, like they were being watched by some unknown specter, especially by the room where his body was hung. Phantom chills and disembodied noises have also been reported, but whoever was the one coming forth with these claims remain a mystery. The historical society couldn’t give me any hard evidence of a murder at the creamery, or even a death, so this spook tale remains in the realm of urban legend.
Broiled Alive
I remember another, far more ghastly story. I was shown a large rusted vat inside one of the many dark rooms of the basement, leprous with peeling paint, dankness and dripping water trickling down overhead. A dim mag light beam illuminated the robust fixture, and it was filled with some sort of unidentifiable glish. As the story goes, sometime in the 30s or 40s, a young man was tasked with making powdered milk, and somehow, fell into a vat of product heated to boiling temperatures. His skin was filleted from his body and was unable to be saved. A more macabre version of the story was that crooked business practices just distributed the milk afterward because losing money was a more grim thought than their customers drinking liquefied employee.
Well, I couldn’t find any validation on that story either – but the historical society did help me dig up a very brief newspaper snippet from the 1940s, about a boy who did die in the creamery in those days before child work regulations, but the cause of his death wasn’t specified. But one look at the gross vat today does make a good totem for a story like this one, and the basement is a creepy place. Not surprisingly, there have been quite a few reports of feelings of unease down there.
The Homeless Man
Another notable story did happen, and is documented. Sort of. In the 1980s, recently after the building had been abandoned, a homeless man got inside and planned on spending the night. But nothing stays warm in the wintery cold, and he decided to get a fire started. The details here vary on what happened, but somehow, him and the old couch he was sleeping on, became engulfed in flame. The man died on site. Speculations vary on how he died, whether some flying cinders landed on his sleeping form and ignited his clothes, he was drunk and knocked over or fell into the barrel he used to put the fire in, or some hoodlum kids decided to harass the guy, and wound up setting him on fire. Either way, a dead vagabond was the result. Today, there is a pancaked and charred couch on the ground floor, which I was told was the very same one he died on. Though that too is unverifiable. Some ghost enthusiasts like to think that the homeless man adds to the creamery’s fabled layers of ghosts.
That may account for a claim I heard around 2009, when someone told me of a strange experience of theirs. As he was walking by the creamery at night, he saw a ‘black cloaked figure – almost like a robed monk’, moving in the same direction as him as he walked by the building down the railroad tracks on his way home. He could easily distinguish the thing thanks to the dirty yellow glow of the street lights coming through the second-floor windows, giving the figure a distinct outline from the shadows. His claim wouldn’t have been as weird if it weren’t for the fact that he saw it walking in a part of the second story that didn’t have a floor.
The Tunnel
My favorite hearsay was of the old tunnel. In my teenage years, when I began to become more intimate with the building, I was acquainted with a piece of Milton lore; about a tunnel, which supposedly led from the creamery, all the way down Main Street underneath several of the old houses before dumping out near the Lamoille River. My teenage mind sort of just took that in as fact, and I began making trips down to the basement trying to find the opening, or a trace of a sealed up door. I did find something, a door below ground level, that had been cinderblocked off. Most likely, that was the old tunnel, and years later, parts of the blockade were sledgehammered through, giving me a glimpse. The tunnel was there all right, but didn’t run all that far. I could see the collapsed section yards from my position. It actually ran to the brick building next door. Today, its apartments, but it was originally built as another part of the creamery, which is why the tunnel was there, and which is why it was sealed off. I spoke to a few Milton old timers, who smirked and recalled breaking into the tunnel when they were younger, and sneaking beer and cigarettes down there. But was there ever a passageway that ran all the way under Main Street? Well, I wrote about that, if you’re curious.
As for me? Well, I’ll admit that my experiences being a tourist to this old building haven’t been all that paranormal. I generally don’t concern myself with hauntings or ghosts anyways, unless one of them walks right up to me and says hi. It’s not that I don’t believe in those things (I write about weird stuff after all!), I just try to take an agnostic approach first. I do have one strange personal account though. In 2011, I was walking up to take some photos, and found a very strangely placed mannequin inside one of the old coolers upstairs, propped right in the doorway so whoever walks by would notice it. This one was particularly creepy. It looked old and decayed and yellowed, and dressed in a patchwork of old clothes. There was also a pentagram carved into its neck. I went to other parts of the building and doubled back about 40 minutes later, and the thing was gone. I never heard or saw anyone come for it. To this day, I still don’t have much of an explanation for that weird event.
I still recall one person writing to me when my old post was live, and told me how they found old co-op milk jugs that had been found underneath their old concrete front steps. They had apparently been used to help build the framework for them, which wasn’t an unusual practice for old Vermonters, who used their ingenuity to use whatever materials they could for their benefits. Milton’s Main and Railroad Streets are old. It makes me wonder what else is found within these old homes.
Painkillers and a Purpose.
This is the section where I get emotional and hash out my scars. If you don’t dig personal backstories or revelations, skip down to the pictures. There’s lots.
Growing up in Milton, I was a shy, creatively maladjusted boy. As the years and my youth passed on, not much changed, apart from my curiosity, and me never feeling like I was comfortable in my own skin. I was always thinking there was something wrong with me. Being diagnosed with Aspergers at a young age, I quickly found out that I was a pundit on certain things, but hopelessly inept with others, like social skills. It was an unhappy balance, and that led to a coming of age where I was bullied and timid.
I suppose it’s fitting that I began to take interest in what we perceive as oddities, or things that don’t fit our conception of the illusion of normal – and their captivating stories. Abandoned places fell into that category for me. The creamery was the first. And better yet, it was easily accessible.
I first dared to cross that threshold into a world that conventional wisdom told me was dangerous and forbidden. And that’s partially why I wanted to venture inside, and why I decided to repeat that ritual for years to come, because people frowned on those sort of behaviors, and I wanted answers for myself.
The thing is, I’ve never been like everyone else or satisfied with the pre-prescribed banalities of everyday life, things that are all too generic and sanitized. Whether it had to do with growing up Aspergian, or be it something in my framework, I never fit in. So I decided to put myself in haunted waters, and see what happened. Turns out, bending the rules, thinking for myself and daring to go against what I was taught was one of the best things I ever turned into a habit – and is some of the best advice I can give to anyone, assuming I’m asked for my opinion on these things.
Everything is a language, everything is constantly trying to tell us something or express itself in its own way. The trick was learning how to discern the signals from the din of chaos. It was the first abandoned building I ever explored that fired the engines of desire and curiosity in my mind. It was in those precious hours inside where I heard an obsession being born amidst the damp cold and watchful eye of wild shadows that would haunt me for years to come. Treading over the debris littered floors, slowly opening crumbling doors, peering into a vast basement filled with water and intimidation, the dark becomes your hunting grounds, in the foreground of endlessly dripping water.
I spent most of my 20s in dislocation and learning about the blues while slowly murdered by my anxiety. I was depressed, lonely, still trying to figure out my autism diagnosis, and going through the trials and tribulations of several different antidepressants or booze. Sometime in between all of that, I lost myself trying to please everyone. In those years of learning what heartache brings, I waltzed between things that I did that brought regret and just trying to get by. By age 25, I had given up on myself. I spent years running from nothing but those vicious, self-depreciating thoughts in my mind and not only did I feel inferior to everyone in the world, but I lost faith in people, and hoping that anyone would understand. I even attempted suicide. They say that you grow up believing the narrative we’re told by society, and how people treat you. Either you had it or you didn’t, I guess. I couldn’t be the only one who felt there had to be something better than the imposed adult lifestyle that was bounded by convention. I knew I wanted more.
My tendencies to escape from the pressures of a judgemental society raging over me and all my failures brought me to these forsaken locations. When things got too rough outside, my earnest self climbed inside. My time hanging out in them not only became like therapy for me, but it also picked me up like a drug as unacquainted fires lit sparks in me that took me years just to understand their ways. Urban exploration helped me confront social and emotional turmoil, as I’d disappear into a sea of rebirth, or at least a change of scenery.
It was here where I could try on my heart, and let my walls down. Over time, I didn’t really mind that I was lonely because it felt like home. Whatever things ran through my mind I could keep for myself. I could learn about myself and my environment and observe both and how they changed with the weather. I could study these ruins and what was left behind, getting an extraordinary and authentic look at a sort of museum of humankind than I could ever learn elsewhere as I picked at the bones. Building materials, architecture, electrical and plumbing, amateur archeology, hazardous side effects, irrelevant culture – all things that would give me a better understanding of the world around me, and conjure more questions and a desire to learn. I could learn to gauge my anxiety and problem solve in different ways.
Little did I know that while I spent so much time in the edges between self-awareness and self-loathing, I grew as a person.
Photography was something I picked up in relation to urban exploration, as I pushed myself to learn the mechanics and how to capture this world that I saw. I really digged the feelings I was receiving, that excitement, that push to keep trying, to keep dreaming. I wanted to get lost because I couldn’t be found. When we’re presented with things that we don’t see in our routine days, we get curious and we look. Social norms often tend to discourage looking closer in real life, and that’s why I love photography. It allows us to do so freely.
I still remember the satisfied grin on my face when I first bought my own camera with money that I had worked so long to save. And the creamery was where I honed those skills. Exploring enhanced and enlightened by appreciation for the landscape around me, and matured a sense of wonder in these everyday spaces. Being a photographer really enhanced my self-esteem and gave me a distraction from everything that was bringing me down. Every photo tells a story. Every photo was taken by someone who had to be at that place, who did the planning, who had an experience to share.
In college, I majored in graphic design, which, despite me falling out of love with it after I became wise to how the industry works and how that didn’t fit me, has greatly influenced and improved my imagery and my hobby. I could further my creativity with all that was still stuck in my head.
Writing has something that always came sort of naturally to me I guess, but it’s still something I’m pretty self-conscious about and always trying to develop. Twisting the night away in front of the comforting glow of a computer screen as I listened to those records that almost hit harder than my pain, I tried to translate and find a meaning in my thoughts and experiences and explores. Especially as I grew older, I wanted to spin a thread from my past into my present and try to find a meaning to my suffering, to these forsaken locations, and how being a human is one complicated gig.
I definitely wore my heart on my sleeve, and I remember all the things I felt discovering my favorite albums, the heroes I would worship, fascinating local weirdness and just about anything else that made me shiver. Part of me wanted to contribute, to create, to make sense of everything I could. What do I do with all these feelings and experiences, these things that are crawling up inside my head in my 20 something-year-old wasteland?
I’m not sure what it is about the creamery, or these temples that are a relief to me, but they make great atmospheres to drain my mind, all the more so when my cup is full.
Exploring ironically became some sort of a social endeavor for me in my young adult years when I was searching for friendships and other libertines. I’d often accidentally meet these amiable, intelligent people with the same interests, and I’d take the chance and meet them in person and go on adventures, and I’ve been lucky to form a few strong bonds because of it.
Before I had this blog, I had a Flickr account. In those days, Flickr was really a niche audience. But somehow, my Vermont-based photographs made their rounds, and over time, others started to reach out to me. We would bond over the places we’d shoot and our stories, and sometimes, if we really hit it off, we’d meet up in person and find new exploratory joys (but to be honest, the biggest thrill for me was to finding new places myself). I think any other explorers can vouch for this – that the conversations you have while adventuring are often the best, and the weirdest. I’ve had plenty of amusing chats underneath the creamery’s arched tin ceilings. That’s how I met my friends and role models Rusty and Christina who run Antiquity Echoes and Dan from Environmental Imagery, to name a few.
The internet introduced me to the “urban exploration” community, which was still emerging at the time and pretty underground, and I remember being curiously thrilled that there were other people out there who did what I did. The explorers (“urbexers”) who were creating websites and putting their photography online, I found, had scars, philosophies, and interests similar to mine. And their work was good, it was venerable, and it gave me a direction. I love people who add personality to their work.
That was also where I was introduced to the term “urbex”, something that attempted to categorize what I was doing. Way different than the modern day urbex explosion that has crawled all over the internet, and alongside the greats, an oversaturation of various disrespectful types who are more into their own vanity and bravado and taking pictures of them smoking vapor cigarettes than the tourism, which often brought drama and something pathetically similar to high school cliques in the social media groups I used to be apart of (another attempt at trying to fit in), so these things turned back into a private affair for me.
I don’t want to be a trite person because that’s unfulfilling and there is no point in following this blog if I sound like everyone else. I’m me, and my thing is to be upfront and honest about where I come from, and often, I talk too much. That may not be everyone’s scene, but I’m okay with it – it’s all I got. It took me years to find my words and a beat, and I’ve learned a murderers row of personal lessons from it.
I’ve been searching all my life for a purpose, some sort of connection to this “humanhood” we’re all supposedly a part of – but I never really found it until I started learning how to live in the present tense and brave through the pain and uncertainties. You have to be vulnerable to grow, and sometimes, letting down my guard was a significant and valuable thing. Proving the static in my head wrong, that I wasn’t too far gone to have a talent.
Exploring, photography, writing, they all sort of united together, and as I chased them, I fell for them. I wasn’t wasting away my soul anymore, and I learned to stand on my own and begin again as my purpose worked its way to the surface. I wanted my life to matter, and for my time to have a positive impact and not to simply pass me by, even if it costs me. I don’t want to just survive, I want to do the best that I can to create a wonderful life. Especially now as my youth and years are passing me by.
Nothing will ever be handed to you. You gotta work hard, or it will never happen. If you want to be an artist or wield a talent, you have to study that art. Get the books, the role models, the media that has to do with what sort of person or thing that you feel you want to become. Study it all the time. Practice, learn, stumble, keep practicing, go. Decide, who are you trying to be? And what’s the motive? Do you want to be an artist that cares about your art, or famous? Those are 2 completely different things. I’d rather be trying to be the best I can be at whatever I’m doing, even if I only have a few other people that happen to like it.
For someone who didn’t believe he had much of a future after he had left college and feels like he’s spent his whole life less up than his downs, this has turned my whole life around. It’s the long haul, but it’s worth it. I try not to put anything out there that I don’t believe is good. Even if that means a lot of time in between my newer posts. Quality is more important to me than success. And I’m still finding my beat and my voice (and still cringing at my earlier posts haha).
I learned that I can succeed even when I’m failing miserably. I learned not to be as negative as I used to be, and indulgence can be a good thing in moderation. Enjoying a little danger now and then is fun and beneficial, and remembering where I came from doesn’t have to be a condemnation. Being willfully ignorant will get me nowhere, and is counter-productive to the life I want to live, or the people that help me shine.
Others are imbued by my weather, and I flourish in the presence of love. Fear gets me nowhere. Anger and indignation can be useful and rejection can make you resilient. In pain there is wisdom. Waiting out my life to hold onto anything never worked.
I re-wrote this blog entry and re-photographed this place for myself, the people I know now, and those who became ghosts, because I think there is a great story being told here. Our beginnings and ends are all written in the choices we make, and they all lead us in a direction.
In this struggle, something can be found, and it shouldn’t be measured by what conventional wisdom has imposed or implied. It’s the experience that means everything. In some ways, I’d like to hope my story can be several of us. And after all I’ve said here, I’m still shaking as I consider hitting the publish button. If you don’t say anything, you’re not vulnerable.
It took me 28 years to stop playing my old records, to get beyond that point where I couldn’t seem to move on yet knew I couldn’t stay the same. Now, I’m writing this up in an apartment 24 miles away from where I grew up, and where I spent my youth in imagination or hopelessly devoted to misery. Life moves on and our stories are always more connected than distance implies.
Requiem Revisited
The town I grew up in left a long time ago, and we lost touch as I shed my skin. Now, with the creamery’s uncertain future and Hyde Manor’s weight taking over and speeding its collapse, I felt like two of the most influential figures of my past lives, things that really shaped the person that’s writing this right now, are vanishing. And they’re dying breeds – venerable buildings built with a motivation and with dignity, things that our new disposable and tawdry society shamefully doesn’t value. That’s more or less evident with all the pop-up cardboard condos appearing in town. It’s a shame that future generations of curious kids or explorers will loose these mysteries and interactions that are kept inside these constructions that they don’t build anymore.
Because I taught myself the basics of photography here, I thought it was ironic that all the photos I had of this place didn’t really reflect how much I feel I’ve progressed over the intervening years – and I definitely felt like out of all the locations I’ve documented, this deserved good representation. So I was on a bittersweet mission of reverence; to record every corner of the building and do a good job at doing so.
My friend Josh and I got together and decided to spend as many days as we could stomping around the creamery with camera equipment, our footsteps the only things haunting its rooms.
I wonder if I would have even gotten into exploring to the extent that I am now, if it wasn’t for my time spent here and the spell I was under. Would I have ever gone to Hyde Manor? Would this blog be existing? I can’t say if this place that has driven me crazy will fall and fade or not, but I’m glad we let our distress push us back to this old haunt and all my forgotten ghosts. But if I never see it again, well, I’m damn appreciative of my time here.
Thank you for the indulgence here. Part of me was almost against posting this last section, but my feelings that it was somehow meaningful and cathartic overpowered the fears of showing my scars.
I think the Lawrence Arms said it best; the time is never right, the words are never right. I hope it’s helpful. I hope it fires you up.
Historical Images
The Creamery Today
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For a blog about obscure Vermont, I’m a little surprised that an abandoned farm hasn’t made the rounds in my posts yet.
Every state has stereotypes that give an oversimplified image of what it’s supposedly all about. Massachusetts is all paved suburbia and Dunkin Donuts, Maine has the ocean and fanfare for an acquired taste called Moxie, and Vermont is a bunch of farms and home to Ben and Jerry’s.
Well, in Vermont’s case, that’s not that far from the truth. Vermont is the most rural state in the nation and to prove it, we have a bunch of statistics with the word “small” in them. We have the second smallest population, the smallest largest city, the smallest tallest building, the smallest state capital, and are the 45th smallest of the states.
Growing up in Vermont, your friends most likely fall into two categories. You love it here, or you think it’s wicked boring. Personally, it’s what we don’t have that I think makes Vermont so great. There are no casinos here, no billboards, few malls and chain stores, and no amusement parks (unless you count the Pump House at Jay Peak?). And in all that space in-between our 9 cities are a lot of farms and their variations.
Agriculture has strong roots up here. Generations of Vermonters have been farmers because you did what you had to do to get by. In such a detached state, other jobs often weren’t here so you had to be self-reliant, until very recently with the emergence of the internet and a growing commuter culture. This hardscrabble lifestyle may very well have infused our culture with that independent-minded, self-sufficient ethos, devising that ‘you-can’t-get-there-from-here’ Vermonter who is crusty, stoic and has abundant old school common sense. Stories of old farmers who toiled in the barn all day and then bootlegged whiskey at night to make enough to save their farms can still be uttered by old timers should you ask them about it.
Many surmise that this was the reasoning behind all the Poor Farm Roads that can be found across the state, because so many Vermonters were farmers who lived around the poverty line, but the actuality is more depressing. Poor Farms were institutional farm complexes that were sort of an early form of welfare, created and supported by public taxes, where anyone who couldn’t support themselves would wind up and were made to labor their days away on by doing farm work. In return, they had food, a bed, and clothes. But from what I heard about them – they were often gloomy places, and many unfortunates spent their lives there and went to the grave there. There’s a Poor Farm Road in the town I grew up in, but by the time I was aware of its namesake, most of the place had long been developed by cookie cutter rural suburbia and erased, minus one old barn which the local kids would tell me used to be part of it, and according to them, had bars on the windows and shackles still on the wall. But a trip down to the end of the road as a late teenager revealed it was just a dilapidated barn without the lingering despair.
In the 1800s, historical records say that the state was 3/4 deforested with most of the land used for sheep grazing, and later, dairy – which gave us a more cows than people ratio. Over the last century, that proportion has directly reversed, and now 3/4 of the state is back to being forested, and we now have more humans than cows – though I’m still heckled about that by flatlanders. The trend reversal started to develop during the last century when aggravated Vermonters moved westward for literal greener pastures with less rocks. We lost about half our population then, and a sizable number of towns around the state still haven’t recovered the lost numbers of their 1800 population peaks.
A good example would be the out of the way southern Vermont town of Windham. The town sharing a name with its positional county had over 1,000 bodies, a half dozen villages and 2 post offices in 1820, but by 1970, had a headcount of just 150.
There is a place name on state maps in the town of Sunderland curiously labeled”Kansas” (there’s also a tinier “East Kansas” a mile or so east), and the odd name is said to have came from a curmudgeonly old farmer who in the 1800s, kept making empty threats to his family, other Sunderlandians, and anyone else who’d listen, that he was so fed up with his rocky fields that he was going to sell his farm and move to Kansas. Only, he never did, and died right there in Bennington County. That part of town became known as Kansas by the locals and soon became a wayfinding moniker.
Vermont still has plenty of agricultural affairs left, but with milk prices not equaling the cost of production, dairy is slowly and steadily dying. Farmers are even callously getting flyers with suicide prevention hotline numbers on them in the mail.
But despite dwindling farms around the country, smaller horticultural farms are taking root all over the state and growing – mostly supporting modern-day farm to table fads, which means Vermont’s emerging restaurants and craft breweries can come blazing through wearing the future on its sleeve.
As a kid, I grew up playing in the woods of an old farm behind my house. Most of the land wasn’t tended and had grown up into a mature forest by then. We used to cut 4 wheeler trails through the growth and explore the old farm roads and examine artifacts from yesteryear we’d come across, like old barbed wire fences, a neon green AMC Hornet pushed into a ravine, and the prime find – the grimy miscellany of the old farmers’ junkyard. We used to salvage stuff from the heaps of junked appliances, tires, and barn mementos and use it to build forts with. Old tin, a couch, the front seats from an old Ford Mustang, even an old woodstove. We made some cool hangouts from the refuse we excitedly recycled.
A friend of mine got in touch with me and said she had a new location up her sleeves, an abandoned farm up in the north part of the state, the dumping ground part of it was on her property and she hadn’t gotten around to doing anything about it yet. I thought it was weird that I live in Vermont and haven’t explored a farm yet. So on a beautiful autumn day, I met up with her and she led me through some overgrown tangle woods of nettles, dead apple trees and mangey looking cedar trees that turned the area into a dark entry. A few minutes into our walk and the already fallow landscape began to change, and I began to notice mounds of discarded anything covered in moss and fallen leaves that had been dumped underneath the dead canopy.
A walk through the Vermont woods can often be revealing. It’s not uncommon to find relics from a different Vermont left to disintegrate below the trees. And in my opinion – our ruins are often one of the coolest things about the human race. We create amazing structures and accomplishments or inhabit these laborious lifestyles and let the aftereffects rot without much of a thought, leaving people like me to eagerly trace their occurrences that blur the line between litter and urban archeology. And out of any time of the year, you can be most appreciative of our habit to ruin than the fall, when visibility is best.
There was a time not that long ago, when Vermonters didn’t dig today’s Green culture. Back then, the most efficient and convenient way to get rid of anything you deemed as garbage, was to make the disposal quick and uncomplicated. This was often accomplished by dumping those items on a far corner of the farm, or let gravity take it down a river bank. Over time, these items accumulated, festering in the woods long after the farm went defunct, or their traces bleeding into our waterways or soil.
How times have changed. Today, a growing chunk of Vermonters are building a culture that feels how we coexist with our environment is a virtue, and villainize those things that don’t fall into place. And if you’re not one of those people, well, it’s also the law. But as is the trend, the movement also shakes things up, especially farmers who find it expensive and laborious to abide by new regulations, or the costs of implementing new laws or infrastructure by a government that many are losing faith in.
A lot less of Vermont is farmed now days, and much of the land has returned to forest, but these rusted and forgotten vestiges of the past still remain, now moldering in the silence of the wilderness. This particular junkyard had an eyebrow-raising amount of stuff brought there. Old tractors, snowmobiles, knob televisions, a Ford truck, religious paraphernalia, antique glass bottles, creepy childrens toys decaying in the weather, a small mound of old appliances, and so much more in depths farther down than I felt good about digging to reach. There is even rumored to be some traces of an old prohibition era still coffined back here, but there was so much to sift through, I probably wouldn’t have been able to recognize it if I was standing on it.
“I thought you’d like this, seeing how you’re into old stuff” said my friend as she went to unscrew the top from her iced tea, humorously not following me further into the collection of trash. “I figured I’d show you before I clean this all up”
“Oh, when is that happening?” I called out as I wobbled and stumbled my way over a mound of shifting garbage that squeaked and rustled underneath my crooked feet.
“Welllll…….one day.” she assured me, a tone of defeat in her voice.
Further down the road, there was the most important cog in the farm machine, the dairy barn, which excited me lots because you never know what you’ll come across in an old Vermonter’s barn. Barns are vital storage spaces, workshops and in some cases, awesomely bizarre museums.
Traditionally, a Vermont farmer would put more money and effort into keeping up the barn than anything else they owned. So much, that many of them would let their houses fall into ruin if they had to make that hard choice of where to divvy up their cash. That even goes as far as the demolition process if the construction gets too far gone. As an old timer up in the Northeast Kingdom once explained to me; “Why tear down a perfectly good barn when it’ll just fall down when it’s ready?”
According to my friend and tour guide, the old barn was close to 100 years old, filled with accumulations of its years. As a side hobby, I’m a picker when my finances allow it, and I used to love shunpiking around rural Vermont and checking out barn finds, yard sales or whatever treasures or weirdness I could spot on our backroads, so I was already wondering what I’d find inside this old barn.
The fading red structure didn’t appear to be in bad shape, or really even abandoned. If I had just passed by, I’d probably thought it was just another working farm. We pulled over in some tall grass and began to tromp our way through the threshold.
I think barns and farms play some role in lots of Vermonters lives, even if you don’t have one of your own, chances are, you know someone who does. I remember my childhood of playing in my paternal grandparents’ dusty old barns on their farm up near East Montpelier, finding ones near Chittenden County to store our 78 Toyota Landcruiser in for the winter, and spending some of the best days of my youth riding my 4 wheeler through sugarbushes and meadows on a 250 acre farm and some of the most beautiful land I’ve had the privilege of having access to in East Wallingford. Now days, I’ve been apartment jumping around the Burlington area, but man, I wish I had a barn of my own where I could set up a workshop and have a place to do projects and space to store the 4 wheeler I would most definitely buy.
While I’m on the subject – do you folks know why red happens to be the ubiquitous choice of barn attire? Simply put – red paint is cheap. But the why behind that answer actually has to do with dying stars. Pretty much; red paint is made from Iron. Iron is created when a star eventually collapses. The ground is loaded with iron, or, an iron-oxide compound called red ochre that makes a good pigment. The ground is loaded with red ochre because when stars die, they explode, and physics decrees they generate a bunch of iron as the result, which is pretty cool.
The dusty whitewashed interior of the barn was pretty cool as well. In typical Vermont tradition, the old farmhands never threw anything away, so the spaces were stuffed with antique furniture, busted farm equipment, and some unexpecteds like a collection of bowling pins. I know barns usually lived double lives thanks to Yankee ingenuity, like this great story on State 14, of an old one in tiny East Granville that formerly was the town’s dance hall that the current owners wish to restore. Maybe these guys used their barn as a makeshift bowling alley to pass the doldrums?
Walking around through hay that stuck to my boots, I realized the barn was a little worse for wear than I had thought. Structurally, it’s wooden floors and walls were beginning their slow descent into wasting away, and some of the older items stored inside were rotting to a point beyond saving.
While I was writing up this post, I remembered another old barn I had checked out many years ago, and decided to dig up the old photos. I want to say these were taken by an insecure me with my Nikon point and shoot, around the spring of 2010. I figured I’d include them in this post as well. It’s sort of funny how years ago, I thought the only way I would be any good at photography was to get myself a top-grade camera, but looking back, I think that heading out with my old point and shoot actually forced me to become more creative and observant with a limited focal distance and zoom range. Man, young Chad had so much to learn. The equipment sure helps, but it’s really the photographer behind the gadgets that makes the difference.
During that spring, I needed to get out of the house to clear my head, and one of the best ways for me to do that was to go shunpiking – one of my favorite activities still.
I found myself on some swampy backroads up in Franklin County. With the windows down and the wet Spring perfume coming through, I found myself passing by an abandoned farm, and next door, a rundown ranch house where the owning family still dwelled.
They agreed to let me skulk around their abandoned farm, but their elderly teenage son thought I was a weirdo for being interested in their place. Well, I am a weirdo, but I’ll never forget his furrowed eyebrow look and accompanying chuckle. According to him, the town actually condemned their old farmhouse when it began to violate building codes as it aged. So they moved into the ranch next door, which honestly didn’t look much better.
The best feature of the property was a tumbledown dairy barn covered in gray decay. The ramshackle structure was worth the potential threat of tetanus. The interior was filled with the debris of century old farm equipment, hidden doors and other relics. Like a beautiful antique sleigh.
I even found a century plus old book underneath some floorboards in an abandoned barn, which raised a few questions. Why was this book concealed under the floor? What else was below my boots?
I’m not into theology, but it was pretty cool. As a graphic design major, I really appreciated the headlining typography. Finding old religious paraphernalia hidden in Vermont buildings isn’t rare it seems. Around the same time, an acquaintance I knew found someone’s leather bound, ornate family bible from 1848 under his floorboards, along with a handgun and the skeleton key to his basement door, which they had never been able to access until then. The decaying book was scrawled with various notes and births/deaths of a family who used to live in his old house in Milton. The place was built in the 1840s as a hotel, and also functioned as a bar, vaudeville theater and silent movie house and an odd fellows hall, before being converted into shoddy apartments.
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